or call Michael at 601 750 2274 or bob at 601 212 5433
If you have a deck on your home and it has been around a while, then you may want to consider upgrading your deck. Upgrading can mean a number of things, but it essentially refers to making our deck better for your family and your home situation. Consider, though, that one of the best upgrades you can make to an existing deck is to add railings to it.
The first step in adding railing to your deck is to cut railing posts. They should be about three feet in height plus the width of the edge of the joist or beam. Measure carefully so that all rails are even with one another. This will make the rest of the process easier.
Next, you will need to notch the posts. The notches should be 1-1/2 inches in depth so that they will feet easily against the joists of your deck. From there, you should make sure you level all posts with a level.
Now you are ready to secure the posts to the deck. This should be don with 3/8 inch lag screws, but you can substitute if you consult with an expert at your home and garden store. In order to make the rail stronger, you can always use a weatherproof wood glue where the posts and joists meet.
Toenail (nail at an angle to catch boards butted up one another) the rails to the posts on each end. Make sure the rail is even with the top of each post. Also, if your deck requires it, make sure you also install a center rail. Even if it is not required, though, this can certainly add stability to your rail. You can consult local building codes to find out if you need to a particular type of railing.
Once you have the rail installed, you can get it stained and sealed. Make sure that you use a stain that either matches or compliments what you already have on the rest of the deck. You can also re-stain and seal the entire deck to get a uniform look. Also, it is a good idea to wait at least 24 hours after staining before you add any sealant to the rail. You can also add pickets if you like to make it look a little more professional. Another option is to add lattice under the rail, but if you leave it open that is acceptable too. The choice is up to you.
As you can see, adding a railing to you deck is not difficult and not really very time consuming. It is, though, one of the best ways to upgrade your deck. This will not only make your deck safer, but it will also make it more valuable in the long run. The rails will also add a more complete look to your deck and in many cases a place for people to set drinks, snacks, and also plants or other accessories. A rail is not just a safety device, you see.
WARNING: always wear gloves and eye protection when using stain and or sealant.
WARNING: use caution and wear proper eye protection when using a saw.
or call us at 601 750 2274
Friday, December 17, 2010
Saturday, February 13, 2010
Home Invasion ..more tips from the crooks
call Michael at 601 750 2274 for immediate assistance.
1. Sometimes, I carry a clipboard. Sometimes, I dress like a lawn guy and carry a rake. I do my best to never, ever look like a crook.
2. The two things I hate most: loud dogs and nosey neighbors.
3. I’ll break a window to get in, even if it makes a little noise. If your neighbor hears one loud sound, he’ll stop what he’s doing and wait to hear it again. If he doesn’t hear it again, he’ll just go back to what he was doing. It’s human nature.
4. I’m not complaining, but why would you pay all that money for a fancy alarm system and leave your house without setting it?
5. I love looking in your windows. I’m looking for signs that you’re home, and for flat screen TVs or gaming systems I’d like. I’ll drive or walk through your neighborhood at night, before you close the blinds, just to pick my targets. So close those curtains and blinds.
6. Avoid announcing your vacation on your Facebook page. It’s easier than you think to look up your address.
7. To you, leaving that window open just a crack during the day is a way to let in a little fresh air. To me, it’s an invitation.
8. If you don’t answer when I knock, I try the door. Occasionally, I hit the jackpot and walk right in.
9, Dont call Michael ..he knows how to stop us. 601 750 2274
and dont buy this recording program .it makes good evidence .
1. Sometimes, I carry a clipboard. Sometimes, I dress like a lawn guy and carry a rake. I do my best to never, ever look like a crook.
2. The two things I hate most: loud dogs and nosey neighbors.
3. I’ll break a window to get in, even if it makes a little noise. If your neighbor hears one loud sound, he’ll stop what he’s doing and wait to hear it again. If he doesn’t hear it again, he’ll just go back to what he was doing. It’s human nature.
4. I’m not complaining, but why would you pay all that money for a fancy alarm system and leave your house without setting it?
5. I love looking in your windows. I’m looking for signs that you’re home, and for flat screen TVs or gaming systems I’d like. I’ll drive or walk through your neighborhood at night, before you close the blinds, just to pick my targets. So close those curtains and blinds.
6. Avoid announcing your vacation on your Facebook page. It’s easier than you think to look up your address.
7. To you, leaving that window open just a crack during the day is a way to let in a little fresh air. To me, it’s an invitation.
8. If you don’t answer when I knock, I try the door. Occasionally, I hit the jackpot and walk right in.
9, Dont call Michael ..he knows how to stop us. 601 750 2274
and dont buy this recording program .it makes good evidence .
Thursday, February 11, 2010
Home Security Tips ..call Michael at 601 750 2274 for more
11. Here’s a helpful hint: I almost never go into kids’ rooms. So , might be a good place for the safe ?
12. You’re right: I won’t have enough time to break into that safe where you keep your valuables. But I come prepared to take it with me.
13. A TV or radio can be a better deterrent than the best alarm system. If you’re reluctant to leave your TV on while you’re out of town...just do it anyway ...real television noises confuse me. Confused...I leave.
Dont call Michael at 601 750 2274 ..he know how to clear all these points up and makes it impossible for me to go to work .
check this out for a computer based security system. Alarms work after the fact , this allows you control and a record.
12. You’re right: I won’t have enough time to break into that safe where you keep your valuables. But I come prepared to take it with me.
13. A TV or radio can be a better deterrent than the best alarm system. If you’re reluctant to leave your TV on while you’re out of town...just do it anyway ...real television noises confuse me. Confused...I leave.
Dont call Michael at 601 750 2274 ..he know how to clear all these points up and makes it impossible for me to go to work .
check this out for a computer based security system. Alarms work after the fact , this allows you control and a record.
Wednesday, February 10, 2010
home invasion ...10 tips from a crook call Michael to avoid this problem 601 750 2274
1. Of course I look familiar. I was here just last week cleaning your carpets, painting your shutters, or delivering your new refrigerator.
2. Hey, thanks for letting me use the bathroom when I was working in your yard last week. While I was in there, I unlatched the back window to make my return a little easier.
3. Love those flowers. That tells me you have taste … and taste means there are nice things inside. Those yard toys your kids leave out always make me wonder what type of computer gaming system you bought for them .
4. Yes, I really do look for newspapers piled up on the driveway. And I might leave a flyer in your front door to see how long it takes you to remove it.
5. If it snows while you’re out of town, get a neighbor to create car and foot tracks into the house.
6. If decorative glass is part of your front entrance, don’t let your alarm company install the control pad where I can see if it’s set. That makes it too easy.
7. A good security company alarms the window over the sink. And the windows on the second floor, which often access the master bedroom—and your jewelry. It’s not a bad idea to put motion detectors up there too.
8. It’s raining, you’re fumbling with your umbrella, and you forget to lock your door. I don’t take a day off because of bad weather.
9. I always knock first. If you answer, I’ll ask for directions somewhere or offer to clean your gutters. (Don’t take me up on it.)
10. Do you really think I won’t look in your sock drawer? I always check dresser drawers, the bedside table, and the medicine cabinet.
2. Hey, thanks for letting me use the bathroom when I was working in your yard last week. While I was in there, I unlatched the back window to make my return a little easier.
3. Love those flowers. That tells me you have taste … and taste means there are nice things inside. Those yard toys your kids leave out always make me wonder what type of computer gaming system you bought for them .
4. Yes, I really do look for newspapers piled up on the driveway. And I might leave a flyer in your front door to see how long it takes you to remove it.
5. If it snows while you’re out of town, get a neighbor to create car and foot tracks into the house.
6. If decorative glass is part of your front entrance, don’t let your alarm company install the control pad where I can see if it’s set. That makes it too easy.
7. A good security company alarms the window over the sink. And the windows on the second floor, which often access the master bedroom—and your jewelry. It’s not a bad idea to put motion detectors up there too.
8. It’s raining, you’re fumbling with your umbrella, and you forget to lock your door. I don’t take a day off because of bad weather.
9. I always knock first. If you answer, I’ll ask for directions somewhere or offer to clean your gutters. (Don’t take me up on it.)
10. Do you really think I won’t look in your sock drawer? I always check dresser drawers, the bedside table, and the medicine cabinet.
Sunday, February 7, 2010
Custom remodeling jackson miss 601 750 2274
call Michael at 601-750-2274
A house with good bones has pleasing lines on the outside, but that artful composition has to be echoed on the inside, too. And nothing's better for giving rooms a handsome, well-built look than wainscoting on the walls.
A combination of decorative boards or panels and moldings that extend partway up a wall's face, wainscoting is a centuries-old marriage of form and style. Dating to the 1300s, the Dutch used it to shield the bottom half of plaster walls from such hazards as jostled chairs, spurs on riding boots, perhaps even carelessly swung scabbards. Wainscoting still guards our walls, but today it's from dirt-caked gardening shoes in mudrooms, olive-oil fingerprints in kitchens, and the inevitable scuffs in the close quarters along hallways and stairways.
Covering your walls with wainscoting made from stock boards—or "sticks"—and panels is easy to do yourself, if you know your way around a chop saw. And if you don't, there's wainscoting that arrives on your doorstep fully assembled and ready to install. On the following pages, we show these and other products and some basic design options, plus a how-to plan for creating a pleasing layout. Just the kind of knowledge you'll need to boost the architectural integrity of any bare walls in your house.
call michael at 601-750-2274
Where to use it
Elegant armor for your walls, wainscoting is particularly well suited to rooms that take a lot of wear and tear
1. Entries
In mudrooms, where boots, backpacks, and wet umbrellas can damage walls, beadboard makes a good choice because there are fewer prominent edges to dent and ding. The walls in more formal foyers are often clad in paneled wainscoting.
call michael at 601-750-2274
2. Stairs and hallways
The walls of these narrow passages benefit from wainscoting's scuff and mark protection. The horizontal rails and the cap generally follow the pitch of the stair; the stiles or beadboard remain vertical.
3. Eating areas
In dining rooms, tall wainscoting topped with a grooved plate rail displays fine china and serving pieces. For more casual kitchens, wainscoting capped at chair height with a prominent top rail safeguards walls from being marred when diners push back from the table.
4. Family rooms and dens
Adding wainscoting to areas where kids—and pets—congregate can have a calming effect, the architectural equivalent of a shhh. Rec rooms benefit too, with a cap rail that's wide enough to perch a drink, Ping-Pong paddles, or pool-cue chalk.
5. Baths
A traditional alternative to pricey tiled walls, wainscoting made from warp-resistant wood, specially treated MDF, or solid surfacing helps protect the drywall or plaster underneath from water damage. It also has a warming effect in this room, where cold porcelain fixtures, ceramic floors, and tub enclosures can predominate.
6. Kids' rooms
Children probably won't give two hoots about it, but parents will appreciate the way wainscoting looks and how easily it cleans up after being used as a canvas for finger paints and crayons.
Pro Advice: Lynn Hopkins, Architect, lexington, Mass. says, "Use paneled wainscot in rooms and entryways where you can stand back and appreciate it. Beadboard works better in close quarters—hallways, mudrooms, and utility areas."
call michael at 601-750-2274
Solid wood
The original wainscoting material. Paint lesser species, such as pine, or clear-coat the good stuff, such as walnut and cherry, to highlight its color and grain. Wood requires careful installation and finishing to prevent cracks and gaps caused by seasonal expansion and contraction.
$–$$$
MDF
Medium-density fiberboard cuts like wood but doesn't expand, contract, warp, split, or have knots. Comes either primed for paint or veneered. Keep it away from water, which causes it to swell and break down. Specially treated moisture-resistant MDF, however, can stand up to steam in a bath.
$$
Plastic
Made from either cellular PVC or the same solid surfacing material used for kitchen counters. Looks like painted wood but won't rot, making it ideal for baths, laundry rooms, and even a kitchen backsplash.
$$
Plywood
The long, wide sheets make installation fast—just rip it down, glue it to the wall, and finish with cap and base moldings. Unlike those in other materials, the groove profiles tend to be shallow and rough.
call Michael at 601-750-2274
Design Rules of Thumb
Follow these guidelines for pleasing proportions
How high?
Generally, the cap sits about one-third the way up the wall. So if the ceiling is 9 feet, go for 3-foot wainscoting. For taller wainscoting, such as one with a plate rail, cap it two-thirds the way up the wall.
How wide a panel?
They should all be the same, so avoid cutting individual panels down at corners and doorways to get them to fit walls of varying lengths. Architects and kit makers use computer-aided design software to calculate panel widths that work for your specific room dimensions.
What to do under windows?
For beadboard, simply cut it to size. For paneled wainscoting, order a center panel that's the same width as your cased window. Its height will vary depending on the distance between your window's projecting bottom stool and the floor or baseboard top.
What about the base?
Baseboard topped with a profiled cap visually anchors wainscoting in a room and adds a little extra kick protection. Cover the joint where wainscoting meets the floor with shoe molding.
A house with good bones has pleasing lines on the outside, but that artful composition has to be echoed on the inside, too. And nothing's better for giving rooms a handsome, well-built look than wainscoting on the walls.
A combination of decorative boards or panels and moldings that extend partway up a wall's face, wainscoting is a centuries-old marriage of form and style. Dating to the 1300s, the Dutch used it to shield the bottom half of plaster walls from such hazards as jostled chairs, spurs on riding boots, perhaps even carelessly swung scabbards. Wainscoting still guards our walls, but today it's from dirt-caked gardening shoes in mudrooms, olive-oil fingerprints in kitchens, and the inevitable scuffs in the close quarters along hallways and stairways.
Covering your walls with wainscoting made from stock boards—or "sticks"—and panels is easy to do yourself, if you know your way around a chop saw. And if you don't, there's wainscoting that arrives on your doorstep fully assembled and ready to install. On the following pages, we show these and other products and some basic design options, plus a how-to plan for creating a pleasing layout. Just the kind of knowledge you'll need to boost the architectural integrity of any bare walls in your house.
call michael at 601-750-2274
Where to use it
Elegant armor for your walls, wainscoting is particularly well suited to rooms that take a lot of wear and tear
1. Entries
In mudrooms, where boots, backpacks, and wet umbrellas can damage walls, beadboard makes a good choice because there are fewer prominent edges to dent and ding. The walls in more formal foyers are often clad in paneled wainscoting.
call michael at 601-750-2274
2. Stairs and hallways
The walls of these narrow passages benefit from wainscoting's scuff and mark protection. The horizontal rails and the cap generally follow the pitch of the stair; the stiles or beadboard remain vertical.
3. Eating areas
In dining rooms, tall wainscoting topped with a grooved plate rail displays fine china and serving pieces. For more casual kitchens, wainscoting capped at chair height with a prominent top rail safeguards walls from being marred when diners push back from the table.
4. Family rooms and dens
Adding wainscoting to areas where kids—and pets—congregate can have a calming effect, the architectural equivalent of a shhh. Rec rooms benefit too, with a cap rail that's wide enough to perch a drink, Ping-Pong paddles, or pool-cue chalk.
5. Baths
A traditional alternative to pricey tiled walls, wainscoting made from warp-resistant wood, specially treated MDF, or solid surfacing helps protect the drywall or plaster underneath from water damage. It also has a warming effect in this room, where cold porcelain fixtures, ceramic floors, and tub enclosures can predominate.
6. Kids' rooms
Children probably won't give two hoots about it, but parents will appreciate the way wainscoting looks and how easily it cleans up after being used as a canvas for finger paints and crayons.
Pro Advice: Lynn Hopkins, Architect, lexington, Mass. says, "Use paneled wainscot in rooms and entryways where you can stand back and appreciate it. Beadboard works better in close quarters—hallways, mudrooms, and utility areas."
call michael at 601-750-2274
Solid wood
The original wainscoting material. Paint lesser species, such as pine, or clear-coat the good stuff, such as walnut and cherry, to highlight its color and grain. Wood requires careful installation and finishing to prevent cracks and gaps caused by seasonal expansion and contraction.
$–$$$
MDF
Medium-density fiberboard cuts like wood but doesn't expand, contract, warp, split, or have knots. Comes either primed for paint or veneered. Keep it away from water, which causes it to swell and break down. Specially treated moisture-resistant MDF, however, can stand up to steam in a bath.
$$
Plastic
Made from either cellular PVC or the same solid surfacing material used for kitchen counters. Looks like painted wood but won't rot, making it ideal for baths, laundry rooms, and even a kitchen backsplash.
$$
Plywood
The long, wide sheets make installation fast—just rip it down, glue it to the wall, and finish with cap and base moldings. Unlike those in other materials, the groove profiles tend to be shallow and rough.
call Michael at 601-750-2274
Design Rules of Thumb
Follow these guidelines for pleasing proportions
How high?
Generally, the cap sits about one-third the way up the wall. So if the ceiling is 9 feet, go for 3-foot wainscoting. For taller wainscoting, such as one with a plate rail, cap it two-thirds the way up the wall.
How wide a panel?
They should all be the same, so avoid cutting individual panels down at corners and doorways to get them to fit walls of varying lengths. Architects and kit makers use computer-aided design software to calculate panel widths that work for your specific room dimensions.
What to do under windows?
For beadboard, simply cut it to size. For paneled wainscoting, order a center panel that's the same width as your cased window. Its height will vary depending on the distance between your window's projecting bottom stool and the floor or baseboard top.
What about the base?
Baseboard topped with a profiled cap visually anchors wainscoting in a room and adds a little extra kick protection. Cover the joint where wainscoting meets the floor with shoe molding.
Saturday, February 6, 2010
custom windows and doors
absolutely gorgeous and worth every dime ...a bargain at twice the price
check us out at
www.customwindowsanddooors.blogspot.com
Burglar proof your home ..3 steps to start
With all the home invasions and break in robberies in upscale neighborhoods, it amazes me how few of the homeowners have initiated even the basic steps to protect your home form invasion .
First ...check your windows for protection. This is generally available on newer windows with the slip locks on the sash ...those tabs you push in so that the window is locked. Check them all and keep them locked.
Second..if you are reading this, then you have a home computer. This is a real asset today in that you can install simple programs that keep a small video camera or two recording while you are gone. These are easily programmed to work certain hours of the day ( while you are gone ) or to record at random times. here is some info on video recording programs
TRENDnet SecurView Wireless Day/Night Pan/Tilt/Zoom Internet Surveillance Camera TV-IP422W (White)
Third ...Install EXTENDED deal bolts on ALL exterior doors. These are dead bolt systems that allow the plunger to extend into the door jamb AND the FRAMING behind the jamb. In fact, you are requiring any intruder to kick down the entire framing system of the door. This is very seldom done since the crooks are in a hurry . They kick it 2 or 3 times, see it isnt going to fail , go to another house. Success on your part.
Although simple for an experienced carpenter, the tools required and the ability are a little outside the scope of the do it your self guy or gal , and this is when you need to call Michael at 601 750 2274.
these are the basic steps that everyone should do in the entire subdivision. I am continually amazed that upscale neighborhood homes are not built with these steps completed.
call Michael for any advice or help .
First ...check your windows for protection. This is generally available on newer windows with the slip locks on the sash ...those tabs you push in so that the window is locked. Check them all and keep them locked.
Second..if you are reading this, then you have a home computer. This is a real asset today in that you can install simple programs that keep a small video camera or two recording while you are gone. These are easily programmed to work certain hours of the day ( while you are gone ) or to record at random times. here is some info on video recording programs
TRENDnet SecurView Wireless Day/Night Pan/Tilt/Zoom Internet Surveillance Camera TV-IP422W (White)
Third ...Install EXTENDED deal bolts on ALL exterior doors. These are dead bolt systems that allow the plunger to extend into the door jamb AND the FRAMING behind the jamb. In fact, you are requiring any intruder to kick down the entire framing system of the door. This is very seldom done since the crooks are in a hurry . They kick it 2 or 3 times, see it isnt going to fail , go to another house. Success on your part.
Although simple for an experienced carpenter, the tools required and the ability are a little outside the scope of the do it your self guy or gal , and this is when you need to call Michael at 601 750 2274.
these are the basic steps that everyone should do in the entire subdivision. I am continually amazed that upscale neighborhood homes are not built with these steps completed.
call Michael for any advice or help .
Friday, February 5, 2010
Crown molding installed 601-750-2274 inside corners
Make a 45-degree cut
Inside corners are composed of a square-cut piece that butts the corner, and a corresponding piece that's cut on an angle and coped (carefully cut along the molding's profile) to conform to the first piece.
Begin by installing a piece of crown with a square-cut end (zero degrees on the saw).
Then position a second piece of molding upside down on the saw and adjust the blade for a miter cut. If this piece comes to the joint from the right side as shown in Step 3, swing the blade to 45 degrees left and make the cut. The bulk of the molding should be sitting on the left side of the saw.
If cutting a left-side coped piece, swing the blade to 45 degrees right, with the molding sitting to the right.
Cope the edge
Highlight the very edge of the cut, along the profiled front of the molding, with a pencil.
Next, using a coping saw, cut away the bevel. Angle the coping saw blade toward the rear about 5 degrees — a technique known as back beveling — and carefully follow the molding profile as you cut.
Use the miter saw table to brace the workpiece when cutting.
Check the fit
After completing the coped cut, test-fit it against the square-cut crown that's nailed in place.
If necessary, use a rasp to remove more wood or smooth out the coped cut.
Nail the coped molding in place and set the nails.
Cut the return
Where the crown molding doesn't butt ito something, you need to finish it with a return. Cut a 45-degree miter on the end of the crown (as you did for an outside corner) and nail it up. Next, make a 45-degree cut in the opposite direction on another piece.
Adjust the saw to zero degrees and lay the piece flat and face-down on the saw table. You'll need to remove your wood guide fence for this.
Cut through the crown, starting at the very point of the miter.
Complete the return
Bore two pilot holes through the tiny triangular return with a 4d finish nail chucked in your drill.
Apply a thin coat of glue to the return, then press it into place and hold it for a minute or two.
Nail the joint gingerly with 4d nails through the pilot holes only if the glue fails to hold.
Set the nails and fill all nail holes with putty.
Inside corners are composed of a square-cut piece that butts the corner, and a corresponding piece that's cut on an angle and coped (carefully cut along the molding's profile) to conform to the first piece.
Begin by installing a piece of crown with a square-cut end (zero degrees on the saw).
Then position a second piece of molding upside down on the saw and adjust the blade for a miter cut. If this piece comes to the joint from the right side as shown in Step 3, swing the blade to 45 degrees left and make the cut. The bulk of the molding should be sitting on the left side of the saw.
If cutting a left-side coped piece, swing the blade to 45 degrees right, with the molding sitting to the right.
Cope the edge
Highlight the very edge of the cut, along the profiled front of the molding, with a pencil.
Next, using a coping saw, cut away the bevel. Angle the coping saw blade toward the rear about 5 degrees — a technique known as back beveling — and carefully follow the molding profile as you cut.
Use the miter saw table to brace the workpiece when cutting.
Check the fit
After completing the coped cut, test-fit it against the square-cut crown that's nailed in place.
If necessary, use a rasp to remove more wood or smooth out the coped cut.
Nail the coped molding in place and set the nails.
Cut the return
Where the crown molding doesn't butt ito something, you need to finish it with a return. Cut a 45-degree miter on the end of the crown (as you did for an outside corner) and nail it up. Next, make a 45-degree cut in the opposite direction on another piece.
Adjust the saw to zero degrees and lay the piece flat and face-down on the saw table. You'll need to remove your wood guide fence for this.
Cut through the crown, starting at the very point of the miter.
Complete the return
Bore two pilot holes through the tiny triangular return with a 4d finish nail chucked in your drill.
Apply a thin coat of glue to the return, then press it into place and hold it for a minute or two.
Nail the joint gingerly with 4d nails through the pilot holes only if the glue fails to hold.
Set the nails and fill all nail holes with putty.
kitchen cabinets remodeling 601 750 2274
Wood Types and Techniques
About the Different Woods:
Different woods are the palette of the furniture maker. They provide color and texture, strength and beauty to handmade furniture.
Each type of wood has characteristics to be considered when building a piece of furniture. Some are very hard and durable; some are flexible and suitable for bending. "Hardwood" is a term applied to trees that lose their leaves in winter. "Softwood" describes evergreens such as fir, pine and redwood. The actual durability a wood is described in a range from very soft to very hard.
Every wood has a distinctive grain structure. Woods such as white and red oak, ash and walnut have "open-pores". These woods have small holes in their surface that give the piece a textural quality. When a stain is applied to this type of surface, the stain tends to collect in the "open-pores" and appears darker than the rest of the piece. Tight grained woods include maple, alder, and cherry. These woods are smooth to the touch and can take finish evenly.
Many woods have unique "figure" such as quilting, birdseye, fiddleback or spalting.
Quilted Pacific Maple
Fiddleback Pacific Maple
These naturally occurring characteristics can make a piece of furniture that reaches beyond the ordinary.
The following is a list of some of the woods used by Northern California woodworkers and their characteristics.
Find the type that most attracts you and consider using that wood for a special piece of furniture. The experienced craftworkers of Humboldt Woodworkers Guild can help find the right wood for your project.
boldt Woodworkers Guild
encourages the use
of sustainably harvested woods.
Replanting and nurturing furniture grade hardwoods helps to
promote healthy, diverse forests. Some of our members used "reclaimed" woods from old buildings to make new furniture that has the patina of aged wood.
Living in Northern California, surrounded by forests, the furnituremakers of the Guild are also able to cut and dry their own woods. Many woodworkers have cached lumber cut from their own land, waiting for a special project. Some woodworkers work exclusively with gathered woods which have fallen in wind and storms.
Using hardwoods in fine furniture promotes the value of mature trees and encourages the replanting of forests and maintenance of healthy, diverse ecosystems.
California Softwoods and Hardwoods
Alder, Pacific Maple, Black Oak, Madrone, Tan Oak, Redwood, Myrtlewood (pepperwood), Claro Walnut, Western Red Cedar, and Yew
Humboldt County woodworkers prize the unique woods of the Pacific Northwest for their beauty and durability. Local woodworkers use native woods alone and in combination with domestic and exotic species creating the furniture that is part of the distinctive designs of Northern California.
Alder
Warm brown color with a figure like cherry. Alder is a medium soft wood suitable for cabinetry and furniture with the appropriate sized joinery.
Pacific Maple
Golden yellow wood with a variety of figure available, can be found in the curly or fiddleback varieties. This is a medium hard wood suitable for all types of furniture.
Madrone
One of the harder California native woods, Madrone has a reddish pink color with streaks of color throughout. Madrone is used in furniture and turnings, and can be used in flooring and architectural woodwork.
Softwoods and Hardwoods
Ash, Basswood, Beech, Birch, Butternut, Tennessee Aromatic Cedar, Cherry, Fir, Hickory, Maple, Pine, Poplar, Red Oak, Walnut, White Oak.
Long a staple of the American furnituremaker, these mostly eastern hardwoods are most familiar to the public. Humboldt County woodworkers use these woods to make the finest handmade furniture.
Maple
Hard rock maple is one of the hardest of domestic woods. The "select white" grade of maple has a warm gold-ivory color when finished with a hand rubbed oil. Because of its hardness rock maple is suitable for all types of furniture and cabinetry.
Cherry
Furniture grade cherry is a moderately heavy, hard, strong, wood. Close grained, it can be polished to a deep and glowing red. Many of the finest early American table tops and interior panels were made of cherrywood. This wood is suitable for all furniture and cabinetry including chairs.
Walnut
North American walnut is one of the most prized hardwoods. It can range in color from deep rich brown to an almost purple brown. This is an open-pored wood that is relatively hard. Walnut is durable and finishes beautifully. The wood is useful in many furniture applications.
Exotic Woods
Andiroba, Bayo, Bloodwood, Bocote, Bubinga, Spanish Cedar, Chaktekok, Chechen, Chicozapote, Cocobolo, Ebony, Fishtail Oak, Granadillo, Ironbark, Ipe, Jabin, Jarrah, Jatoba, Katalox, Kingwood, Koa, Lacewood, Lignum Vitae, African Mahogany, Machiche, Narra, Obeche, Pau Ferro, African Paduak, Peruvian Walnut, Purpleheart, Brazilian Rosewood, Satinwood, Snakewood, Teak, Vesi Wenge, Zebrawood
With bright colors and expressive grain patterns these woods are often used as highlights in furnishing and turnings. Also, some of these exotic woods such as African mahogany and granadillo are excellent for building whole pieces of furniture, chairs and cabinetry.
Lacewood
A relatively soft wood grown widely in Australia, lacewood has an unusual grain structure that has the look of hammered copper when properly cut. It can be used as an accent wood or in veneered tabletops.
Granadillo
A beautiful, very hard wood from Southern Mexico with a tan-deep brown streaking. This close grained wood is a "Smart Wood" selectively harvested in cooperation with the indigenous people. This wood is suitable for all furniture applications.
African Mahogany
Here is traditional mahogany, deep rich, red and suitable for any furniture application. This wood is imported from Ghana, which has had a sustained yield forestry program in place since 1910.
About Techniques
The solid wood furniture of Humboldt Woodworkers Guild is built using time-honored joinery that gives the work beauty and durability.
All wood is made up of cells that continue to shrink and swell with changes in humidity. A 12-inch wide board will move on average about 1/8 of an inch over the course of a year.
If wood is not properly joined the boards will crack and break apart over the years. Antique furniture that has survived today was crafted with joints such as the mortise and tenon, dovetail, finger joint, floating panels and beautifully glued veneers. It's not that they didn't make bad furniture 100 years ago, it's just that only the good furniture has survived.
Mortise and Tenon - A mortise is the opening cut in wood, a tenon is the piece that is shaped to fit in it. This joint is used to join cross members, for example, connecting a rail to the leg of a chair.
Dovetail - The traditional joint used for drawers and to join casework work in fine cabinetry. The dovetail actually locks the wood in place in one direction.
Finger Joint - A simple joint that is similar in usage to the dovetail, the finger joint is stronger than the dovetail and compliments drawers and casework with a square patterned appearance.
Floating Panels- Frame and panels doors feature solid wood panels that fit into grooves in the wood of the frame. This construction allows the wood panel to "float" with the seasonal movement of wood.
Veneered woods - Another way to control the movement of wood to glue thinly sliced sheets of wood to a more moisture resistance substrate. Using this technique woodworkers can select unusually beautiful boards and carry the appearance of the wood grain throughout the piece.
Humboldt County woodworkers use both hand and machine tools to make fine furniture.
Chisels, hand planes and cabinet scrapers are still used in all shops along with tools as modern as a computer assisted router.
About the Different Woods:
Different woods are the palette of the furniture maker. They provide color and texture, strength and beauty to handmade furniture.
Each type of wood has characteristics to be considered when building a piece of furniture. Some are very hard and durable; some are flexible and suitable for bending. "Hardwood" is a term applied to trees that lose their leaves in winter. "Softwood" describes evergreens such as fir, pine and redwood. The actual durability a wood is described in a range from very soft to very hard.
Every wood has a distinctive grain structure. Woods such as white and red oak, ash and walnut have "open-pores". These woods have small holes in their surface that give the piece a textural quality. When a stain is applied to this type of surface, the stain tends to collect in the "open-pores" and appears darker than the rest of the piece. Tight grained woods include maple, alder, and cherry. These woods are smooth to the touch and can take finish evenly.
Many woods have unique "figure" such as quilting, birdseye, fiddleback or spalting.
Quilted Pacific Maple
Fiddleback Pacific Maple
These naturally occurring characteristics can make a piece of furniture that reaches beyond the ordinary.
The following is a list of some of the woods used by Northern California woodworkers and their characteristics.
Find the type that most attracts you and consider using that wood for a special piece of furniture. The experienced craftworkers of Humboldt Woodworkers Guild can help find the right wood for your project.
boldt Woodworkers Guild
encourages the use
of sustainably harvested woods.
Replanting and nurturing furniture grade hardwoods helps to
promote healthy, diverse forests. Some of our members used "reclaimed" woods from old buildings to make new furniture that has the patina of aged wood.
Living in Northern California, surrounded by forests, the furnituremakers of the Guild are also able to cut and dry their own woods. Many woodworkers have cached lumber cut from their own land, waiting for a special project. Some woodworkers work exclusively with gathered woods which have fallen in wind and storms.
Using hardwoods in fine furniture promotes the value of mature trees and encourages the replanting of forests and maintenance of healthy, diverse ecosystems.
California Softwoods and Hardwoods
Alder, Pacific Maple, Black Oak, Madrone, Tan Oak, Redwood, Myrtlewood (pepperwood), Claro Walnut, Western Red Cedar, and Yew
Humboldt County woodworkers prize the unique woods of the Pacific Northwest for their beauty and durability. Local woodworkers use native woods alone and in combination with domestic and exotic species creating the furniture that is part of the distinctive designs of Northern California.
Alder
Warm brown color with a figure like cherry. Alder is a medium soft wood suitable for cabinetry and furniture with the appropriate sized joinery.
Pacific Maple
Golden yellow wood with a variety of figure available, can be found in the curly or fiddleback varieties. This is a medium hard wood suitable for all types of furniture.
Madrone
One of the harder California native woods, Madrone has a reddish pink color with streaks of color throughout. Madrone is used in furniture and turnings, and can be used in flooring and architectural woodwork.
Softwoods and Hardwoods
Ash, Basswood, Beech, Birch, Butternut, Tennessee Aromatic Cedar, Cherry, Fir, Hickory, Maple, Pine, Poplar, Red Oak, Walnut, White Oak.
Long a staple of the American furnituremaker, these mostly eastern hardwoods are most familiar to the public. Humboldt County woodworkers use these woods to make the finest handmade furniture.
Maple
Hard rock maple is one of the hardest of domestic woods. The "select white" grade of maple has a warm gold-ivory color when finished with a hand rubbed oil. Because of its hardness rock maple is suitable for all types of furniture and cabinetry.
Cherry
Furniture grade cherry is a moderately heavy, hard, strong, wood. Close grained, it can be polished to a deep and glowing red. Many of the finest early American table tops and interior panels were made of cherrywood. This wood is suitable for all furniture and cabinetry including chairs.
Walnut
North American walnut is one of the most prized hardwoods. It can range in color from deep rich brown to an almost purple brown. This is an open-pored wood that is relatively hard. Walnut is durable and finishes beautifully. The wood is useful in many furniture applications.
Exotic Woods
Andiroba, Bayo, Bloodwood, Bocote, Bubinga, Spanish Cedar, Chaktekok, Chechen, Chicozapote, Cocobolo, Ebony, Fishtail Oak, Granadillo, Ironbark, Ipe, Jabin, Jarrah, Jatoba, Katalox, Kingwood, Koa, Lacewood, Lignum Vitae, African Mahogany, Machiche, Narra, Obeche, Pau Ferro, African Paduak, Peruvian Walnut, Purpleheart, Brazilian Rosewood, Satinwood, Snakewood, Teak, Vesi Wenge, Zebrawood
With bright colors and expressive grain patterns these woods are often used as highlights in furnishing and turnings. Also, some of these exotic woods such as African mahogany and granadillo are excellent for building whole pieces of furniture, chairs and cabinetry.
Lacewood
A relatively soft wood grown widely in Australia, lacewood has an unusual grain structure that has the look of hammered copper when properly cut. It can be used as an accent wood or in veneered tabletops.
Granadillo
A beautiful, very hard wood from Southern Mexico with a tan-deep brown streaking. This close grained wood is a "Smart Wood" selectively harvested in cooperation with the indigenous people. This wood is suitable for all furniture applications.
African Mahogany
Here is traditional mahogany, deep rich, red and suitable for any furniture application. This wood is imported from Ghana, which has had a sustained yield forestry program in place since 1910.
About Techniques
The solid wood furniture of Humboldt Woodworkers Guild is built using time-honored joinery that gives the work beauty and durability.
All wood is made up of cells that continue to shrink and swell with changes in humidity. A 12-inch wide board will move on average about 1/8 of an inch over the course of a year.
If wood is not properly joined the boards will crack and break apart over the years. Antique furniture that has survived today was crafted with joints such as the mortise and tenon, dovetail, finger joint, floating panels and beautifully glued veneers. It's not that they didn't make bad furniture 100 years ago, it's just that only the good furniture has survived.
Mortise and Tenon - A mortise is the opening cut in wood, a tenon is the piece that is shaped to fit in it. This joint is used to join cross members, for example, connecting a rail to the leg of a chair.
Dovetail - The traditional joint used for drawers and to join casework work in fine cabinetry. The dovetail actually locks the wood in place in one direction.
Finger Joint - A simple joint that is similar in usage to the dovetail, the finger joint is stronger than the dovetail and compliments drawers and casework with a square patterned appearance.
Floating Panels- Frame and panels doors feature solid wood panels that fit into grooves in the wood of the frame. This construction allows the wood panel to "float" with the seasonal movement of wood.
Veneered woods - Another way to control the movement of wood to glue thinly sliced sheets of wood to a more moisture resistance substrate. Using this technique woodworkers can select unusually beautiful boards and carry the appearance of the wood grain throughout the piece.
Humboldt County woodworkers use both hand and machine tools to make fine furniture.
Chisels, hand planes and cabinet scrapers are still used in all shops along with tools as modern as a computer assisted router.
home invasion , home invasions avoided call Michael at 601 212 5433
Assistant Chief Lee Vance said he believes the same people are responsible for all the burglaries or break-ins in Jackson.
The most recent burglary was Tuesday night at New Jerusalem Church on Old Canton Road. Thieves broke a basement window and took about $15,000 in sound equipment and electronics.
The burglary happened sometime after a revival ended at 9:30 p.m. and 1 a.m., when a Jackson police officer on patrol spotted the broken window and called church officials who then discovered the missing items.
Church members still were cleaning up Thursday. The sound system had to be rewired because equipment was ripped out, said Alvin Jackson, associate pastor.
The church is getting estimates on additional security, including surveillance cameras, he said. It has an alarm, but it didn't go off during the burglary because it was not armed, Jackson said.
Parishioner Kizzy Lewis said the break-in made her sad more than anything.
"You need to be coming to church instead of breaking into church," she said.
In most of the break-ins, the perpetrators used bricks or rocks to smash the glass out of windows or doors.
They then ransacked the pulpits, offices and sanctuaries, taking video cameras, amplifiers, bass guitars, computers, televisions and more.
At Cornerstone Missionary Baptist Church on Martin Luther King Jr. Drive, burglars stacked equipment near the broken front window, then took the items out through the window.
Police have not found a pattern in which churches are being hit, Vance said. Some of the churches are small with fewer than 100 members while others have larger congregations.
Vance said the burglars are motivated by money, and churches are easy targets. The items being stolen are pretty easy to sell on the streets, he said.
JPD is checking area pawn shops but has not recovered any of the stolen items. JPD also has directed patrols to check churches every hour throughout the night.
Morning Star Baptist Church hasn't been burglarized, and that's the way Rev. Bryan Wilson hopes it stays. The church is evaluating its security system, he said.
At Greater Bethlehem Temple, church officials have asked their alarm company to test the system and are making sure all locks work and that staff members know to secure the building upon leaving, communications director Ervin Ricks said.
The most recent burglary was Tuesday night at New Jerusalem Church on Old Canton Road. Thieves broke a basement window and took about $15,000 in sound equipment and electronics.
The burglary happened sometime after a revival ended at 9:30 p.m. and 1 a.m., when a Jackson police officer on patrol spotted the broken window and called church officials who then discovered the missing items.
Church members still were cleaning up Thursday. The sound system had to be rewired because equipment was ripped out, said Alvin Jackson, associate pastor.
The church is getting estimates on additional security, including surveillance cameras, he said. It has an alarm, but it didn't go off during the burglary because it was not armed, Jackson said.
Parishioner Kizzy Lewis said the break-in made her sad more than anything.
"You need to be coming to church instead of breaking into church," she said.
In most of the break-ins, the perpetrators used bricks or rocks to smash the glass out of windows or doors.
They then ransacked the pulpits, offices and sanctuaries, taking video cameras, amplifiers, bass guitars, computers, televisions and more.
At Cornerstone Missionary Baptist Church on Martin Luther King Jr. Drive, burglars stacked equipment near the broken front window, then took the items out through the window.
Police have not found a pattern in which churches are being hit, Vance said. Some of the churches are small with fewer than 100 members while others have larger congregations.
Vance said the burglars are motivated by money, and churches are easy targets. The items being stolen are pretty easy to sell on the streets, he said.
JPD is checking area pawn shops but has not recovered any of the stolen items. JPD also has directed patrols to check churches every hour throughout the night.
Morning Star Baptist Church hasn't been burglarized, and that's the way Rev. Bryan Wilson hopes it stays. The church is evaluating its security system, he said.
At Greater Bethlehem Temple, church officials have asked their alarm company to test the system and are making sure all locks work and that staff members know to secure the building upon leaving, communications director Ervin Ricks said.
Saturday, January 30, 2010
Deck Builders ..how to 601-750-2274
Have you decided to add a deck? If so, you've already thought about the big picture — the overall size, shape, and height of the deck, how it relates to the house and yard, and where to put the stairs and entrance into the house.
Call Michael at 601-750-2274
Now, as the design evolves and construction nears, start to fine-tune. This is the time to think about railings, lighting, decking patterns, privacy screens, built-in seating, and other details that make an ordinary deck extraordinary.
The trio of decks featured here will help you do just that. Each showcases an interesting design feature: a guard rail made of stainless-steel cables, a round-top gate built into a lattice panel, and a neatly trimmed picture-frame decking pattern.
Panoramic Redwood
Perched high on a Northern California hilltop, James and Ellie Johnson's home offers spectacular views of the foothills that surround 3,800-foot-high Mount Diablo. When the Johnsons decided to have a redwood deck built along one side of their in-ground pool, they wanted to be sure the structure and its guard rail would not obscure the scenic vista.
call michael at 601-750-2274
Two clever details were integrated into the design to maintain the view. First, James suggested building the 500-square-foot free-form deck 12 inches below the top edge of the pool. The lower position makes the deck much less conspicuous when you stand near the house and look out across the pool into the distance. As a bonus, the dropped-down deck creates a comfortable sitting ledge along the serpentine edge of the pool.
The second detail had an even greater impact. Contractor Mark Cobb, of Diablo Decks in nearby Oakley, installed a nearly invisible guard rail made of thin steel cables. The CableRail system, from Feeney Wire Rope, consists of 10 stainless-steel cables that run through holes bored in the 4x4 posts. In this system, steel protector sleeves are placed in the holes before the cables are threaded to keep them from chafing the wood. Special fittings at the end posts secure the 1/8-inch-diameter cables and allow them to be properly tensioned. The result is an attractive, unobtrusive guard rail. The 60 linear feet of railing cost about $780.
If you decide to use the CableRail system, remember that the end posts must be at least 3 inches away from the house so the fittings can be attached and the cables tightened. Also be sure your local building department approves your deck and railing design before ordering the system.
Lovely Lattice
Airy lattice panels wrap the perimeter of this spacious 16x34-foot red-cedar deck. Lattice-lined guard rails enclose the edge farthest from the house, while 7-foot-tall lattice-filled privacy screens at the ends provide a bit of shade and seclusion without blocking cool breezes. Those round "windows" cut into the privacy screens aren't just decorative; each 40-inch-diameter circle is a swing-out gate that provides easy access to the surrounding lawn.
The round window frames are made up of 3 1/2-inch-wide segmented sections cut from a cedar 2x12. The sections were joined by biscuit splines and glue to form arcs, which were cut out with a sabre saw. Then the lattice panels were sandwiched between the circular frames. The top half of each window is stationary while the bottom half swings open.
call michael at 601-750-2274
Thin prefabricated lattice panels are what you'll usually find in deck construction. For this project, all the lattice was custom-cut from 5/4-inch cedar boards for a stronger, more substantial look. The boards were ripped into 1 1/2-inch-wide strips. Then a radial-arm saw equipped with a 1-inch-wide dado blade was used to cut a 3/4-inch-deep x 1-inch-wide notch in the edge of each strip. The notches were spaced 4 3/8 inch on center to create a series of interlocking edge-lap joints.
The lattice strips were fastened together with stainless-steel screws, then the assembled panels were set between vertical 4x6 deck posts. In this case, 1-inch-deep x 1 1/2-inch-wide grooves were cut in the posts to accept the lattice panels. A simpler way to secure the panels is to nail a 3/4-inch-square vertical wood stop to the posts, insert the lattice panels, then nail on another stop. Be sure to use only rust-resistant stainless-steel or hot-dipped galvanized fasteners.
Picture Perfect
This inviting oasis was built alongside a kidney-shaped in-ground pool. A 7-foot-square whirlpool spa sits in the middle of the 16x16-foot deck. The spa rests diagonally on a 4-inch-thick x 8-foot-square concrete slab poured before the redwood deck was built.
call michael at 601-750-2274
The meticulously built deck boasts two levels and an L-shaped wraparound bench made up of redwood 2x4s. But perhaps its most interesting feature is the way the 2x6 deck boards are trimmed — a technique known as picture framing.
On most decks, deck boards are cut flush with the outer edge of the perimeter band joists. With picture framing, the ends of the deck boards are set back from the edge of the band joists and then trimmed with a picture frame perimeter border. The border — usually a 2x6 or 2x8 — hides the ends of the deck boards and gives the finished deck a neat, clean appearance.
As the illustration shows, picture framing requires a double band joist. Two 2x8 pressure-treated joists were separated by 2x4 spacers, with one spacer placed every 24 inches. The result is a 4 1/2-inch-wide beam that supports the 2x6 border and the deck board ends. A 1x10 redwood fascia trim board was nailed to the 2x8 band joists around the perimeter to hide the under structure.
When building a picture-frame deck, be sure a liberal coat of stain or clear wood preservative is applied to the ends of all the deck boards before the border is nailed or screwed down. This extra step is crucial for blocking out moisture and preventing the end grain of the decking from rotting. It can't be done after the border is installed.
call michael at 601-750-2274
Call Michael at 601-750-2274
Now, as the design evolves and construction nears, start to fine-tune. This is the time to think about railings, lighting, decking patterns, privacy screens, built-in seating, and other details that make an ordinary deck extraordinary.
The trio of decks featured here will help you do just that. Each showcases an interesting design feature: a guard rail made of stainless-steel cables, a round-top gate built into a lattice panel, and a neatly trimmed picture-frame decking pattern.
Panoramic Redwood
Perched high on a Northern California hilltop, James and Ellie Johnson's home offers spectacular views of the foothills that surround 3,800-foot-high Mount Diablo. When the Johnsons decided to have a redwood deck built along one side of their in-ground pool, they wanted to be sure the structure and its guard rail would not obscure the scenic vista.
call michael at 601-750-2274
Two clever details were integrated into the design to maintain the view. First, James suggested building the 500-square-foot free-form deck 12 inches below the top edge of the pool. The lower position makes the deck much less conspicuous when you stand near the house and look out across the pool into the distance. As a bonus, the dropped-down deck creates a comfortable sitting ledge along the serpentine edge of the pool.
The second detail had an even greater impact. Contractor Mark Cobb, of Diablo Decks in nearby Oakley, installed a nearly invisible guard rail made of thin steel cables. The CableRail system, from Feeney Wire Rope, consists of 10 stainless-steel cables that run through holes bored in the 4x4 posts. In this system, steel protector sleeves are placed in the holes before the cables are threaded to keep them from chafing the wood. Special fittings at the end posts secure the 1/8-inch-diameter cables and allow them to be properly tensioned. The result is an attractive, unobtrusive guard rail. The 60 linear feet of railing cost about $780.
If you decide to use the CableRail system, remember that the end posts must be at least 3 inches away from the house so the fittings can be attached and the cables tightened. Also be sure your local building department approves your deck and railing design before ordering the system.
Lovely Lattice
Airy lattice panels wrap the perimeter of this spacious 16x34-foot red-cedar deck. Lattice-lined guard rails enclose the edge farthest from the house, while 7-foot-tall lattice-filled privacy screens at the ends provide a bit of shade and seclusion without blocking cool breezes. Those round "windows" cut into the privacy screens aren't just decorative; each 40-inch-diameter circle is a swing-out gate that provides easy access to the surrounding lawn.
The round window frames are made up of 3 1/2-inch-wide segmented sections cut from a cedar 2x12. The sections were joined by biscuit splines and glue to form arcs, which were cut out with a sabre saw. Then the lattice panels were sandwiched between the circular frames. The top half of each window is stationary while the bottom half swings open.
call michael at 601-750-2274
Thin prefabricated lattice panels are what you'll usually find in deck construction. For this project, all the lattice was custom-cut from 5/4-inch cedar boards for a stronger, more substantial look. The boards were ripped into 1 1/2-inch-wide strips. Then a radial-arm saw equipped with a 1-inch-wide dado blade was used to cut a 3/4-inch-deep x 1-inch-wide notch in the edge of each strip. The notches were spaced 4 3/8 inch on center to create a series of interlocking edge-lap joints.
The lattice strips were fastened together with stainless-steel screws, then the assembled panels were set between vertical 4x6 deck posts. In this case, 1-inch-deep x 1 1/2-inch-wide grooves were cut in the posts to accept the lattice panels. A simpler way to secure the panels is to nail a 3/4-inch-square vertical wood stop to the posts, insert the lattice panels, then nail on another stop. Be sure to use only rust-resistant stainless-steel or hot-dipped galvanized fasteners.
Picture Perfect
This inviting oasis was built alongside a kidney-shaped in-ground pool. A 7-foot-square whirlpool spa sits in the middle of the 16x16-foot deck. The spa rests diagonally on a 4-inch-thick x 8-foot-square concrete slab poured before the redwood deck was built.
call michael at 601-750-2274
The meticulously built deck boasts two levels and an L-shaped wraparound bench made up of redwood 2x4s. But perhaps its most interesting feature is the way the 2x6 deck boards are trimmed — a technique known as picture framing.
On most decks, deck boards are cut flush with the outer edge of the perimeter band joists. With picture framing, the ends of the deck boards are set back from the edge of the band joists and then trimmed with a picture frame perimeter border. The border — usually a 2x6 or 2x8 — hides the ends of the deck boards and gives the finished deck a neat, clean appearance.
As the illustration shows, picture framing requires a double band joist. Two 2x8 pressure-treated joists were separated by 2x4 spacers, with one spacer placed every 24 inches. The result is a 4 1/2-inch-wide beam that supports the 2x6 border and the deck board ends. A 1x10 redwood fascia trim board was nailed to the 2x8 band joists around the perimeter to hide the under structure.
When building a picture-frame deck, be sure a liberal coat of stain or clear wood preservative is applied to the ends of all the deck boards before the border is nailed or screwed down. This extra step is crucial for blocking out moisture and preventing the end grain of the decking from rotting. It can't be done after the border is installed.
call michael at 601-750-2274
Thursday, January 28, 2010
Crown molding installed 601-750-2274
American new-home buyers have been conditioned to settle for the stripped-down model of Home, Sweet Home—houses lacking in crafted detail, missing, among other things, the gracious moldings that bring a timeless sophistication to any room. Primary among these is crown molding. The good news: Crown molding can be added without a big bill from the lumberyard or clouds of drywall dust.
Installing crown molding, however, is a task that strikes fear in the heart of every amateur carpenter—and even some pros. Because it sits at an angle on the wall, each joint is made of compound angles. Getting it right requires a lot of patience, an aptitude for spatial relations, and a few tricks from an experienced pro.
There are some basic rules for installing crown molding that you can pick up anywhere, but the best way to master them is to watch a pro. When we asked Tom Silva to show us how he puts up crown, his 40 years of experience became evident right away. For one thing, he seldom picks up a tape measure, marking his cuts in place whenever possible. "Measuring leaves you open to miscalculations," he says.
He also doesn't lay the molding flat to cut it. Cutting crown flat, though it might seem easier, requires a saw that lets you tilt the blade (for the bevel) and rotate it (for the miter angle). You also need a set of tables to know the correct angles for the cuts.
Instead, Tom uses a simple power miter saw and arranges the material so it sits against the saw fence at the same angle it will be nailed to the wall.
Although the molding has to be upside down in this method, a simple downward cut of the blade set at 45 degrees produces the perfect bevel and miter at once, as you'll see
1. Create a guide fence
Place a piece of your molding at an angle upside down on the miter saw table so that the narrower bevel on the back of the molding rests on the saw table — this is actually the top of the molding, which will contact the ceiling when in place. The wider bevel (actually the "wall" part of the molding) will be against the saw's vertical fence. Secure with clamps.
Cut a piece of plywood or solid stock 30 inches long for a fence.
Apply hot glue to the saw table on either side of its rotating center, and press the fence in place against the clamped molding. Hold it in place until the glue sets. Then remove the crown and cut away the center section of the fence at 45 degrees in each direction.
2. Make the first scarf cut
When two lengths of molding are required for a long wall, join them with an angled, overlapping scarf joint.
If you're working counterclockwise around the room, adjust the saw for a 45-degree miter cut to the left. (Swing it to the right if you're going clockwise.) Then put the crown, upside down as before, on the saw table between the wood guide fence and the vertical saw fence. Make sure the piece you're keeping is on the side to which the blade is turned.
Hold the molding securely, then cut through it slowly.
Leave the blade in the same position, and cut the adjoining length of molding with the piece you're keeping on the other side of the blade.
Installing crown molding, however, is a task that strikes fear in the heart of every amateur carpenter—and even some pros. Because it sits at an angle on the wall, each joint is made of compound angles. Getting it right requires a lot of patience, an aptitude for spatial relations, and a few tricks from an experienced pro.
There are some basic rules for installing crown molding that you can pick up anywhere, but the best way to master them is to watch a pro. When we asked Tom Silva to show us how he puts up crown, his 40 years of experience became evident right away. For one thing, he seldom picks up a tape measure, marking his cuts in place whenever possible. "Measuring leaves you open to miscalculations," he says.
He also doesn't lay the molding flat to cut it. Cutting crown flat, though it might seem easier, requires a saw that lets you tilt the blade (for the bevel) and rotate it (for the miter angle). You also need a set of tables to know the correct angles for the cuts.
Instead, Tom uses a simple power miter saw and arranges the material so it sits against the saw fence at the same angle it will be nailed to the wall.
Although the molding has to be upside down in this method, a simple downward cut of the blade set at 45 degrees produces the perfect bevel and miter at once, as you'll see
1. Create a guide fence
Place a piece of your molding at an angle upside down on the miter saw table so that the narrower bevel on the back of the molding rests on the saw table — this is actually the top of the molding, which will contact the ceiling when in place. The wider bevel (actually the "wall" part of the molding) will be against the saw's vertical fence. Secure with clamps.
Cut a piece of plywood or solid stock 30 inches long for a fence.
Apply hot glue to the saw table on either side of its rotating center, and press the fence in place against the clamped molding. Hold it in place until the glue sets. Then remove the crown and cut away the center section of the fence at 45 degrees in each direction.
2. Make the first scarf cut
When two lengths of molding are required for a long wall, join them with an angled, overlapping scarf joint.
If you're working counterclockwise around the room, adjust the saw for a 45-degree miter cut to the left. (Swing it to the right if you're going clockwise.) Then put the crown, upside down as before, on the saw table between the wood guide fence and the vertical saw fence. Make sure the piece you're keeping is on the side to which the blade is turned.
Hold the molding securely, then cut through it slowly.
Leave the blade in the same position, and cut the adjoining length of molding with the piece you're keeping on the other side of the blade.
how to build a stroage shed
How To Build a Storage Shed / Garden Shed
These free shed plans are for a 8x8 barn style storage shed, garden shed. Once you have decided on the type of storage shed , you will need some storage shed plans.
If you have decided to build an 8x8 gambrel roof storage shed take a look around at my free storage shed plans. If you decide to build this type of storage shed, start by cutting all your material then assemble your shed.
If you are looking for something different, you may want to check out this site, Sheds software from Big Hammer I have not bought this software, but it looks nice and would like to try it.
I hope this blog helps you building your storage shed / garden shed. I have put lots of pictures, and will try to explain the steps, to build this 8x8 gambrel roof storage shed.
After looking at many pre-built storage shed kits and local storage shed builders sheds, I decided to build my own from scratch.
The material cost was around $950 from a building supply store.
I built the entire storage shed myself in about three days.
Building your own storage shed can be a very satisfying process, you will have a well built storage shed that will outlast any wood or sheet metal kit shed.
Make sure you stop by or call your zoning department before you begin your project.
Find out whether your storage shed will be allowed by zoning regulations.
Storage sheds greater than 120 sq. feet generally require a permit, but temporary buildings generally do not.
How to build a storage shed, step-by-step instructions will take you through these stages.
Framing, the floor will be first, then the walls and then the roof.
Roofing, adding the roofing paper and shingles.
Exterior finishes, including trim and paint.
Many of the tools needed to build your storage sheds are common to most households.
Thanks for visiting my blog, I hope my free shed plans helped you out with your storage shed project.
more steps to follow ..or call me at 601 750-2274 and I will build it for you
* auger - A tool for drillingholes in wood, consisting of a bit with a spirally inclined plane and a handle.
* baluster - A rod supporting a stair or porch railing.
* bar clamp - A long metal bar with an adjustable clamp.
* batten - A strip of wood, or a board, used to bridge or seal a gap between two other boards.
* beveled cut - An angle cut.
* bit- That part of a drill or auger which actually makes the hole.
* block plane - A small hand tool used to shave off or smooth lumber.
* box nail - A thin shank , flat headed nail.
* centers - The measured distance between the center of one stud or joist, rafter, etc. and its neighbor.
* chalk line - A string coated with chalk dust, used to mark long, straight lines.
* chisel - A straight or beveled edge tool used for paring wood.
* combination square - A 12 inch long measuring toolwith a sliding head, which can be adjusted at different lengths. The head has one at a 90 degree -right- angle to the blade and the other edge at a 45 degree angel.
* common nail - A flat headed nail with a heavier head and thicker shank than a box nail.
* counterbore - To bore a hole in order to recess a screw head. The hole is often filled with a wooden plug.
* countersink - To drive a nail or screw until the head is below the surface of the wood.
* finishing nail - A headless or nearly headless nail.
* gusset- A flat brace joining two boards, often a triangle of plywood joining two rafters at the roof peak.
* jamb - The inner framework of a door facing the edge of the door.
* rafter - A timber extending from roof peak to wall top.
* skid - A foundation board for small building, like a little storage shed or dog house
* wood clamp - Two wooden jaws with a adjustable threaded steel rods running through them.
These free shed plans are for a 8x8 barn style storage shed, garden shed. Once you have decided on the type of storage shed , you will need some storage shed plans.
If you have decided to build an 8x8 gambrel roof storage shed take a look around at my free storage shed plans. If you decide to build this type of storage shed, start by cutting all your material then assemble your shed.
If you are looking for something different, you may want to check out this site, Sheds software from Big Hammer I have not bought this software, but it looks nice and would like to try it.
I hope this blog helps you building your storage shed / garden shed. I have put lots of pictures, and will try to explain the steps, to build this 8x8 gambrel roof storage shed.
After looking at many pre-built storage shed kits and local storage shed builders sheds, I decided to build my own from scratch.
The material cost was around $950 from a building supply store.
I built the entire storage shed myself in about three days.
Building your own storage shed can be a very satisfying process, you will have a well built storage shed that will outlast any wood or sheet metal kit shed.
Make sure you stop by or call your zoning department before you begin your project.
Find out whether your storage shed will be allowed by zoning regulations.
Storage sheds greater than 120 sq. feet generally require a permit, but temporary buildings generally do not.
How to build a storage shed, step-by-step instructions will take you through these stages.
Framing, the floor will be first, then the walls and then the roof.
Roofing, adding the roofing paper and shingles.
Exterior finishes, including trim and paint.
Many of the tools needed to build your storage sheds are common to most households.
Thanks for visiting my blog, I hope my free shed plans helped you out with your storage shed project.
more steps to follow ..or call me at 601 750-2274 and I will build it for you
* auger - A tool for drillingholes in wood, consisting of a bit with a spirally inclined plane and a handle.
* baluster - A rod supporting a stair or porch railing.
* bar clamp - A long metal bar with an adjustable clamp.
* batten - A strip of wood, or a board, used to bridge or seal a gap between two other boards.
* beveled cut - An angle cut.
* bit- That part of a drill or auger which actually makes the hole.
* block plane - A small hand tool used to shave off or smooth lumber.
* box nail - A thin shank , flat headed nail.
* centers - The measured distance between the center of one stud or joist, rafter, etc. and its neighbor.
* chalk line - A string coated with chalk dust, used to mark long, straight lines.
* chisel - A straight or beveled edge tool used for paring wood.
* combination square - A 12 inch long measuring toolwith a sliding head, which can be adjusted at different lengths. The head has one at a 90 degree -right- angle to the blade and the other edge at a 45 degree angel.
* common nail - A flat headed nail with a heavier head and thicker shank than a box nail.
* counterbore - To bore a hole in order to recess a screw head. The hole is often filled with a wooden plug.
* countersink - To drive a nail or screw until the head is below the surface of the wood.
* finishing nail - A headless or nearly headless nail.
* gusset- A flat brace joining two boards, often a triangle of plywood joining two rafters at the roof peak.
* jamb - The inner framework of a door facing the edge of the door.
* rafter - A timber extending from roof peak to wall top.
* skid - A foundation board for small building, like a little storage shed or dog house
* wood clamp - Two wooden jaws with a adjustable threaded steel rods running through them.
Crown molding installed 601-750-2274 outside corners
Determine angle of outside corner
An outside corner can be formed by cutting two pieces of crown with opposite miters of 45 degrees each, making sure both miters are longer on the top of the crown (the part that rests on the saw table when you cut). But sometimes a wall corner isn't exactly square, so you must first measure the angle formed by the two walls and and then bisect it.
To do this, take two pieces of wood of exactly the same width and hold one against each wall, making sure their ends overlap by an inch or so.
Next, draw pencil lines on the face of the upper piece (the one held flat to the ceiling) alongside each edge of the overlapping piece.
Draw a diagonal line to connect two opposite corners of the marks.
Test the angle cuts
Turn the pieces so they are stacked precisely one on top of the other (make sure to put the piece with the pencil lines on top). Then take this stack to the miter saw, put one set of the boards' edges against the saw fence, and adjust the blade angle to match the diagonal line.
Saw through both pieces at the same time along the diagonal line. This cut bisects the angle of the outside corner.
Hold the cut pieces against the ceiling as shown and check for a tight fit. If necessary, mark in which direction the angle is off, adjust the saw to match this corrected angle, reassemble the two boards as before, and cut them. Then test again to be sure.
Cut the outside miter
Mount a piece of crown in the saw (upside down as before), leaving the blade set to the angle used to cut the test scrap. This is the angle you'll use to cut the outside corner.
Because the molding is upside down, if the saw blade is swung to the right, you will be cutting the right-half piece of the joint and you'll need to cut off the right end of the workpiece. If the blade is swung to the left, cut off the left end of the workpiece to complete the left half of the joint.
Once you've cut the first piece, use the test scrap to adjust the blade in the opposite direction and cut the other half of the joint.
Install the molding on the corner
Hold the molding pieces in position at the outside corner and check for a tight fit (left).
Before nailing the molding to the wall, bore two pilot holes through the point of the miter joint. A 4d finish nail chucked into your drill works well here.
Then apply glue to the miter joint and fasten each piece of crown with 6d or 8d finish nails top and bottom.
At the corner joint, tap 4d finish nails through the pilot holes.
Set all the nails.
An outside corner can be formed by cutting two pieces of crown with opposite miters of 45 degrees each, making sure both miters are longer on the top of the crown (the part that rests on the saw table when you cut). But sometimes a wall corner isn't exactly square, so you must first measure the angle formed by the two walls and and then bisect it.
To do this, take two pieces of wood of exactly the same width and hold one against each wall, making sure their ends overlap by an inch or so.
Next, draw pencil lines on the face of the upper piece (the one held flat to the ceiling) alongside each edge of the overlapping piece.
Draw a diagonal line to connect two opposite corners of the marks.
Test the angle cuts
Turn the pieces so they are stacked precisely one on top of the other (make sure to put the piece with the pencil lines on top). Then take this stack to the miter saw, put one set of the boards' edges against the saw fence, and adjust the blade angle to match the diagonal line.
Saw through both pieces at the same time along the diagonal line. This cut bisects the angle of the outside corner.
Hold the cut pieces against the ceiling as shown and check for a tight fit. If necessary, mark in which direction the angle is off, adjust the saw to match this corrected angle, reassemble the two boards as before, and cut them. Then test again to be sure.
Cut the outside miter
Mount a piece of crown in the saw (upside down as before), leaving the blade set to the angle used to cut the test scrap. This is the angle you'll use to cut the outside corner.
Because the molding is upside down, if the saw blade is swung to the right, you will be cutting the right-half piece of the joint and you'll need to cut off the right end of the workpiece. If the blade is swung to the left, cut off the left end of the workpiece to complete the left half of the joint.
Once you've cut the first piece, use the test scrap to adjust the blade in the opposite direction and cut the other half of the joint.
Install the molding on the corner
Hold the molding pieces in position at the outside corner and check for a tight fit (left).
Before nailing the molding to the wall, bore two pilot holes through the point of the miter joint. A 4d finish nail chucked into your drill works well here.
Then apply glue to the miter joint and fasten each piece of crown with 6d or 8d finish nails top and bottom.
At the corner joint, tap 4d finish nails through the pilot holes.
Set all the nails.
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