Have you decided to add a deck? If so, you've already thought about the big picture — the overall size, shape, and height of the deck, how it relates to the house and yard, and where to put the stairs and entrance into the house.
Call Michael at 601-750-2274
Now, as the design evolves and construction nears, start to fine-tune. This is the time to think about railings, lighting, decking patterns, privacy screens, built-in seating, and other details that make an ordinary deck extraordinary.
The trio of decks featured here will help you do just that. Each showcases an interesting design feature: a guard rail made of stainless-steel cables, a round-top gate built into a lattice panel, and a neatly trimmed picture-frame decking pattern.
Panoramic Redwood
Perched high on a Northern California hilltop, James and Ellie Johnson's home offers spectacular views of the foothills that surround 3,800-foot-high Mount Diablo. When the Johnsons decided to have a redwood deck built along one side of their in-ground pool, they wanted to be sure the structure and its guard rail would not obscure the scenic vista.
call michael at 601-750-2274
Two clever details were integrated into the design to maintain the view. First, James suggested building the 500-square-foot free-form deck 12 inches below the top edge of the pool. The lower position makes the deck much less conspicuous when you stand near the house and look out across the pool into the distance. As a bonus, the dropped-down deck creates a comfortable sitting ledge along the serpentine edge of the pool.
The second detail had an even greater impact. Contractor Mark Cobb, of Diablo Decks in nearby Oakley, installed a nearly invisible guard rail made of thin steel cables. The CableRail system, from Feeney Wire Rope, consists of 10 stainless-steel cables that run through holes bored in the 4x4 posts. In this system, steel protector sleeves are placed in the holes before the cables are threaded to keep them from chafing the wood. Special fittings at the end posts secure the 1/8-inch-diameter cables and allow them to be properly tensioned. The result is an attractive, unobtrusive guard rail. The 60 linear feet of railing cost about $780.
If you decide to use the CableRail system, remember that the end posts must be at least 3 inches away from the house so the fittings can be attached and the cables tightened. Also be sure your local building department approves your deck and railing design before ordering the system.
Lovely Lattice
Airy lattice panels wrap the perimeter of this spacious 16x34-foot red-cedar deck. Lattice-lined guard rails enclose the edge farthest from the house, while 7-foot-tall lattice-filled privacy screens at the ends provide a bit of shade and seclusion without blocking cool breezes. Those round "windows" cut into the privacy screens aren't just decorative; each 40-inch-diameter circle is a swing-out gate that provides easy access to the surrounding lawn.
The round window frames are made up of 3 1/2-inch-wide segmented sections cut from a cedar 2x12. The sections were joined by biscuit splines and glue to form arcs, which were cut out with a sabre saw. Then the lattice panels were sandwiched between the circular frames. The top half of each window is stationary while the bottom half swings open.
call michael at 601-750-2274
Thin prefabricated lattice panels are what you'll usually find in deck construction. For this project, all the lattice was custom-cut from 5/4-inch cedar boards for a stronger, more substantial look. The boards were ripped into 1 1/2-inch-wide strips. Then a radial-arm saw equipped with a 1-inch-wide dado blade was used to cut a 3/4-inch-deep x 1-inch-wide notch in the edge of each strip. The notches were spaced 4 3/8 inch on center to create a series of interlocking edge-lap joints.
The lattice strips were fastened together with stainless-steel screws, then the assembled panels were set between vertical 4x6 deck posts. In this case, 1-inch-deep x 1 1/2-inch-wide grooves were cut in the posts to accept the lattice panels. A simpler way to secure the panels is to nail a 3/4-inch-square vertical wood stop to the posts, insert the lattice panels, then nail on another stop. Be sure to use only rust-resistant stainless-steel or hot-dipped galvanized fasteners.
Picture Perfect
This inviting oasis was built alongside a kidney-shaped in-ground pool. A 7-foot-square whirlpool spa sits in the middle of the 16x16-foot deck. The spa rests diagonally on a 4-inch-thick x 8-foot-square concrete slab poured before the redwood deck was built.
call michael at 601-750-2274
The meticulously built deck boasts two levels and an L-shaped wraparound bench made up of redwood 2x4s. But perhaps its most interesting feature is the way the 2x6 deck boards are trimmed — a technique known as picture framing.
On most decks, deck boards are cut flush with the outer edge of the perimeter band joists. With picture framing, the ends of the deck boards are set back from the edge of the band joists and then trimmed with a picture frame perimeter border. The border — usually a 2x6 or 2x8 — hides the ends of the deck boards and gives the finished deck a neat, clean appearance.
As the illustration shows, picture framing requires a double band joist. Two 2x8 pressure-treated joists were separated by 2x4 spacers, with one spacer placed every 24 inches. The result is a 4 1/2-inch-wide beam that supports the 2x6 border and the deck board ends. A 1x10 redwood fascia trim board was nailed to the 2x8 band joists around the perimeter to hide the under structure.
When building a picture-frame deck, be sure a liberal coat of stain or clear wood preservative is applied to the ends of all the deck boards before the border is nailed or screwed down. This extra step is crucial for blocking out moisture and preventing the end grain of the decking from rotting. It can't be done after the border is installed.
call michael at 601-750-2274
Saturday, January 30, 2010
Thursday, January 28, 2010
Crown molding installed 601-750-2274
American new-home buyers have been conditioned to settle for the stripped-down model of Home, Sweet Home—houses lacking in crafted detail, missing, among other things, the gracious moldings that bring a timeless sophistication to any room. Primary among these is crown molding. The good news: Crown molding can be added without a big bill from the lumberyard or clouds of drywall dust.
Installing crown molding, however, is a task that strikes fear in the heart of every amateur carpenter—and even some pros. Because it sits at an angle on the wall, each joint is made of compound angles. Getting it right requires a lot of patience, an aptitude for spatial relations, and a few tricks from an experienced pro.
There are some basic rules for installing crown molding that you can pick up anywhere, but the best way to master them is to watch a pro. When we asked Tom Silva to show us how he puts up crown, his 40 years of experience became evident right away. For one thing, he seldom picks up a tape measure, marking his cuts in place whenever possible. "Measuring leaves you open to miscalculations," he says.
He also doesn't lay the molding flat to cut it. Cutting crown flat, though it might seem easier, requires a saw that lets you tilt the blade (for the bevel) and rotate it (for the miter angle). You also need a set of tables to know the correct angles for the cuts.
Instead, Tom uses a simple power miter saw and arranges the material so it sits against the saw fence at the same angle it will be nailed to the wall.
Although the molding has to be upside down in this method, a simple downward cut of the blade set at 45 degrees produces the perfect bevel and miter at once, as you'll see
1. Create a guide fence
Place a piece of your molding at an angle upside down on the miter saw table so that the narrower bevel on the back of the molding rests on the saw table — this is actually the top of the molding, which will contact the ceiling when in place. The wider bevel (actually the "wall" part of the molding) will be against the saw's vertical fence. Secure with clamps.
Cut a piece of plywood or solid stock 30 inches long for a fence.
Apply hot glue to the saw table on either side of its rotating center, and press the fence in place against the clamped molding. Hold it in place until the glue sets. Then remove the crown and cut away the center section of the fence at 45 degrees in each direction.
2. Make the first scarf cut
When two lengths of molding are required for a long wall, join them with an angled, overlapping scarf joint.
If you're working counterclockwise around the room, adjust the saw for a 45-degree miter cut to the left. (Swing it to the right if you're going clockwise.) Then put the crown, upside down as before, on the saw table between the wood guide fence and the vertical saw fence. Make sure the piece you're keeping is on the side to which the blade is turned.
Hold the molding securely, then cut through it slowly.
Leave the blade in the same position, and cut the adjoining length of molding with the piece you're keeping on the other side of the blade.
Installing crown molding, however, is a task that strikes fear in the heart of every amateur carpenter—and even some pros. Because it sits at an angle on the wall, each joint is made of compound angles. Getting it right requires a lot of patience, an aptitude for spatial relations, and a few tricks from an experienced pro.
There are some basic rules for installing crown molding that you can pick up anywhere, but the best way to master them is to watch a pro. When we asked Tom Silva to show us how he puts up crown, his 40 years of experience became evident right away. For one thing, he seldom picks up a tape measure, marking his cuts in place whenever possible. "Measuring leaves you open to miscalculations," he says.
He also doesn't lay the molding flat to cut it. Cutting crown flat, though it might seem easier, requires a saw that lets you tilt the blade (for the bevel) and rotate it (for the miter angle). You also need a set of tables to know the correct angles for the cuts.
Instead, Tom uses a simple power miter saw and arranges the material so it sits against the saw fence at the same angle it will be nailed to the wall.
Although the molding has to be upside down in this method, a simple downward cut of the blade set at 45 degrees produces the perfect bevel and miter at once, as you'll see
1. Create a guide fence
Place a piece of your molding at an angle upside down on the miter saw table so that the narrower bevel on the back of the molding rests on the saw table — this is actually the top of the molding, which will contact the ceiling when in place. The wider bevel (actually the "wall" part of the molding) will be against the saw's vertical fence. Secure with clamps.
Cut a piece of plywood or solid stock 30 inches long for a fence.
Apply hot glue to the saw table on either side of its rotating center, and press the fence in place against the clamped molding. Hold it in place until the glue sets. Then remove the crown and cut away the center section of the fence at 45 degrees in each direction.
2. Make the first scarf cut
When two lengths of molding are required for a long wall, join them with an angled, overlapping scarf joint.
If you're working counterclockwise around the room, adjust the saw for a 45-degree miter cut to the left. (Swing it to the right if you're going clockwise.) Then put the crown, upside down as before, on the saw table between the wood guide fence and the vertical saw fence. Make sure the piece you're keeping is on the side to which the blade is turned.
Hold the molding securely, then cut through it slowly.
Leave the blade in the same position, and cut the adjoining length of molding with the piece you're keeping on the other side of the blade.
how to build a stroage shed
How To Build a Storage Shed / Garden Shed
These free shed plans are for a 8x8 barn style storage shed, garden shed. Once you have decided on the type of storage shed , you will need some storage shed plans.
If you have decided to build an 8x8 gambrel roof storage shed take a look around at my free storage shed plans. If you decide to build this type of storage shed, start by cutting all your material then assemble your shed.
If you are looking for something different, you may want to check out this site, Sheds software from Big Hammer I have not bought this software, but it looks nice and would like to try it.
I hope this blog helps you building your storage shed / garden shed. I have put lots of pictures, and will try to explain the steps, to build this 8x8 gambrel roof storage shed.
After looking at many pre-built storage shed kits and local storage shed builders sheds, I decided to build my own from scratch.
The material cost was around $950 from a building supply store.
I built the entire storage shed myself in about three days.
Building your own storage shed can be a very satisfying process, you will have a well built storage shed that will outlast any wood or sheet metal kit shed.
Make sure you stop by or call your zoning department before you begin your project.
Find out whether your storage shed will be allowed by zoning regulations.
Storage sheds greater than 120 sq. feet generally require a permit, but temporary buildings generally do not.
How to build a storage shed, step-by-step instructions will take you through these stages.
Framing, the floor will be first, then the walls and then the roof.
Roofing, adding the roofing paper and shingles.
Exterior finishes, including trim and paint.
Many of the tools needed to build your storage sheds are common to most households.
Thanks for visiting my blog, I hope my free shed plans helped you out with your storage shed project.
more steps to follow ..or call me at 601 750-2274 and I will build it for you
* auger - A tool for drillingholes in wood, consisting of a bit with a spirally inclined plane and a handle.
* baluster - A rod supporting a stair or porch railing.
* bar clamp - A long metal bar with an adjustable clamp.
* batten - A strip of wood, or a board, used to bridge or seal a gap between two other boards.
* beveled cut - An angle cut.
* bit- That part of a drill or auger which actually makes the hole.
* block plane - A small hand tool used to shave off or smooth lumber.
* box nail - A thin shank , flat headed nail.
* centers - The measured distance between the center of one stud or joist, rafter, etc. and its neighbor.
* chalk line - A string coated with chalk dust, used to mark long, straight lines.
* chisel - A straight or beveled edge tool used for paring wood.
* combination square - A 12 inch long measuring toolwith a sliding head, which can be adjusted at different lengths. The head has one at a 90 degree -right- angle to the blade and the other edge at a 45 degree angel.
* common nail - A flat headed nail with a heavier head and thicker shank than a box nail.
* counterbore - To bore a hole in order to recess a screw head. The hole is often filled with a wooden plug.
* countersink - To drive a nail or screw until the head is below the surface of the wood.
* finishing nail - A headless or nearly headless nail.
* gusset- A flat brace joining two boards, often a triangle of plywood joining two rafters at the roof peak.
* jamb - The inner framework of a door facing the edge of the door.
* rafter - A timber extending from roof peak to wall top.
* skid - A foundation board for small building, like a little storage shed or dog house
* wood clamp - Two wooden jaws with a adjustable threaded steel rods running through them.
These free shed plans are for a 8x8 barn style storage shed, garden shed. Once you have decided on the type of storage shed , you will need some storage shed plans.
If you have decided to build an 8x8 gambrel roof storage shed take a look around at my free storage shed plans. If you decide to build this type of storage shed, start by cutting all your material then assemble your shed.
If you are looking for something different, you may want to check out this site, Sheds software from Big Hammer I have not bought this software, but it looks nice and would like to try it.
I hope this blog helps you building your storage shed / garden shed. I have put lots of pictures, and will try to explain the steps, to build this 8x8 gambrel roof storage shed.
After looking at many pre-built storage shed kits and local storage shed builders sheds, I decided to build my own from scratch.
The material cost was around $950 from a building supply store.
I built the entire storage shed myself in about three days.
Building your own storage shed can be a very satisfying process, you will have a well built storage shed that will outlast any wood or sheet metal kit shed.
Make sure you stop by or call your zoning department before you begin your project.
Find out whether your storage shed will be allowed by zoning regulations.
Storage sheds greater than 120 sq. feet generally require a permit, but temporary buildings generally do not.
How to build a storage shed, step-by-step instructions will take you through these stages.
Framing, the floor will be first, then the walls and then the roof.
Roofing, adding the roofing paper and shingles.
Exterior finishes, including trim and paint.
Many of the tools needed to build your storage sheds are common to most households.
Thanks for visiting my blog, I hope my free shed plans helped you out with your storage shed project.
more steps to follow ..or call me at 601 750-2274 and I will build it for you
* auger - A tool for drillingholes in wood, consisting of a bit with a spirally inclined plane and a handle.
* baluster - A rod supporting a stair or porch railing.
* bar clamp - A long metal bar with an adjustable clamp.
* batten - A strip of wood, or a board, used to bridge or seal a gap between two other boards.
* beveled cut - An angle cut.
* bit- That part of a drill or auger which actually makes the hole.
* block plane - A small hand tool used to shave off or smooth lumber.
* box nail - A thin shank , flat headed nail.
* centers - The measured distance between the center of one stud or joist, rafter, etc. and its neighbor.
* chalk line - A string coated with chalk dust, used to mark long, straight lines.
* chisel - A straight or beveled edge tool used for paring wood.
* combination square - A 12 inch long measuring toolwith a sliding head, which can be adjusted at different lengths. The head has one at a 90 degree -right- angle to the blade and the other edge at a 45 degree angel.
* common nail - A flat headed nail with a heavier head and thicker shank than a box nail.
* counterbore - To bore a hole in order to recess a screw head. The hole is often filled with a wooden plug.
* countersink - To drive a nail or screw until the head is below the surface of the wood.
* finishing nail - A headless or nearly headless nail.
* gusset- A flat brace joining two boards, often a triangle of plywood joining two rafters at the roof peak.
* jamb - The inner framework of a door facing the edge of the door.
* rafter - A timber extending from roof peak to wall top.
* skid - A foundation board for small building, like a little storage shed or dog house
* wood clamp - Two wooden jaws with a adjustable threaded steel rods running through them.
Crown molding installed 601-750-2274 outside corners
Determine angle of outside corner
An outside corner can be formed by cutting two pieces of crown with opposite miters of 45 degrees each, making sure both miters are longer on the top of the crown (the part that rests on the saw table when you cut). But sometimes a wall corner isn't exactly square, so you must first measure the angle formed by the two walls and and then bisect it.
To do this, take two pieces of wood of exactly the same width and hold one against each wall, making sure their ends overlap by an inch or so.
Next, draw pencil lines on the face of the upper piece (the one held flat to the ceiling) alongside each edge of the overlapping piece.
Draw a diagonal line to connect two opposite corners of the marks.
Test the angle cuts
Turn the pieces so they are stacked precisely one on top of the other (make sure to put the piece with the pencil lines on top). Then take this stack to the miter saw, put one set of the boards' edges against the saw fence, and adjust the blade angle to match the diagonal line.
Saw through both pieces at the same time along the diagonal line. This cut bisects the angle of the outside corner.
Hold the cut pieces against the ceiling as shown and check for a tight fit. If necessary, mark in which direction the angle is off, adjust the saw to match this corrected angle, reassemble the two boards as before, and cut them. Then test again to be sure.
Cut the outside miter
Mount a piece of crown in the saw (upside down as before), leaving the blade set to the angle used to cut the test scrap. This is the angle you'll use to cut the outside corner.
Because the molding is upside down, if the saw blade is swung to the right, you will be cutting the right-half piece of the joint and you'll need to cut off the right end of the workpiece. If the blade is swung to the left, cut off the left end of the workpiece to complete the left half of the joint.
Once you've cut the first piece, use the test scrap to adjust the blade in the opposite direction and cut the other half of the joint.
Install the molding on the corner
Hold the molding pieces in position at the outside corner and check for a tight fit (left).
Before nailing the molding to the wall, bore two pilot holes through the point of the miter joint. A 4d finish nail chucked into your drill works well here.
Then apply glue to the miter joint and fasten each piece of crown with 6d or 8d finish nails top and bottom.
At the corner joint, tap 4d finish nails through the pilot holes.
Set all the nails.
An outside corner can be formed by cutting two pieces of crown with opposite miters of 45 degrees each, making sure both miters are longer on the top of the crown (the part that rests on the saw table when you cut). But sometimes a wall corner isn't exactly square, so you must first measure the angle formed by the two walls and and then bisect it.
To do this, take two pieces of wood of exactly the same width and hold one against each wall, making sure their ends overlap by an inch or so.
Next, draw pencil lines on the face of the upper piece (the one held flat to the ceiling) alongside each edge of the overlapping piece.
Draw a diagonal line to connect two opposite corners of the marks.
Test the angle cuts
Turn the pieces so they are stacked precisely one on top of the other (make sure to put the piece with the pencil lines on top). Then take this stack to the miter saw, put one set of the boards' edges against the saw fence, and adjust the blade angle to match the diagonal line.
Saw through both pieces at the same time along the diagonal line. This cut bisects the angle of the outside corner.
Hold the cut pieces against the ceiling as shown and check for a tight fit. If necessary, mark in which direction the angle is off, adjust the saw to match this corrected angle, reassemble the two boards as before, and cut them. Then test again to be sure.
Cut the outside miter
Mount a piece of crown in the saw (upside down as before), leaving the blade set to the angle used to cut the test scrap. This is the angle you'll use to cut the outside corner.
Because the molding is upside down, if the saw blade is swung to the right, you will be cutting the right-half piece of the joint and you'll need to cut off the right end of the workpiece. If the blade is swung to the left, cut off the left end of the workpiece to complete the left half of the joint.
Once you've cut the first piece, use the test scrap to adjust the blade in the opposite direction and cut the other half of the joint.
Install the molding on the corner
Hold the molding pieces in position at the outside corner and check for a tight fit (left).
Before nailing the molding to the wall, bore two pilot holes through the point of the miter joint. A 4d finish nail chucked into your drill works well here.
Then apply glue to the miter joint and fasten each piece of crown with 6d or 8d finish nails top and bottom.
At the corner joint, tap 4d finish nails through the pilot holes.
Set all the nails.
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