call Michael at 601 750 2274 for immediate assistance.
1. Sometimes, I carry a clipboard. Sometimes, I dress like a lawn guy and carry a rake. I do my best to never, ever look like a crook.
2. The two things I hate most: loud dogs and nosey neighbors.
3. I’ll break a window to get in, even if it makes a little noise. If your neighbor hears one loud sound, he’ll stop what he’s doing and wait to hear it again. If he doesn’t hear it again, he’ll just go back to what he was doing. It’s human nature.
4. I’m not complaining, but why would you pay all that money for a fancy alarm system and leave your house without setting it?
5. I love looking in your windows. I’m looking for signs that you’re home, and for flat screen TVs or gaming systems I’d like. I’ll drive or walk through your neighborhood at night, before you close the blinds, just to pick my targets. So close those curtains and blinds.
6. Avoid announcing your vacation on your Facebook page. It’s easier than you think to look up your address.
7. To you, leaving that window open just a crack during the day is a way to let in a little fresh air. To me, it’s an invitation.
8. If you don’t answer when I knock, I try the door. Occasionally, I hit the jackpot and walk right in.
9, Dont call Michael ..he knows how to stop us. 601 750 2274
and dont buy this recording program .it makes good evidence .
Saturday, February 13, 2010
Thursday, February 11, 2010
Home Security Tips ..call Michael at 601 750 2274 for more
11. Here’s a helpful hint: I almost never go into kids’ rooms. So , might be a good place for the safe ?
12. You’re right: I won’t have enough time to break into that safe where you keep your valuables. But I come prepared to take it with me.
13. A TV or radio can be a better deterrent than the best alarm system. If you’re reluctant to leave your TV on while you’re out of town...just do it anyway ...real television noises confuse me. Confused...I leave.
Dont call Michael at 601 750 2274 ..he know how to clear all these points up and makes it impossible for me to go to work .
check this out for a computer based security system. Alarms work after the fact , this allows you control and a record.
12. You’re right: I won’t have enough time to break into that safe where you keep your valuables. But I come prepared to take it with me.
13. A TV or radio can be a better deterrent than the best alarm system. If you’re reluctant to leave your TV on while you’re out of town...just do it anyway ...real television noises confuse me. Confused...I leave.
Dont call Michael at 601 750 2274 ..he know how to clear all these points up and makes it impossible for me to go to work .
check this out for a computer based security system. Alarms work after the fact , this allows you control and a record.
Wednesday, February 10, 2010
home invasion ...10 tips from a crook call Michael to avoid this problem 601 750 2274
1. Of course I look familiar. I was here just last week cleaning your carpets, painting your shutters, or delivering your new refrigerator.
2. Hey, thanks for letting me use the bathroom when I was working in your yard last week. While I was in there, I unlatched the back window to make my return a little easier.
3. Love those flowers. That tells me you have taste … and taste means there are nice things inside. Those yard toys your kids leave out always make me wonder what type of computer gaming system you bought for them .
4. Yes, I really do look for newspapers piled up on the driveway. And I might leave a flyer in your front door to see how long it takes you to remove it.
5. If it snows while you’re out of town, get a neighbor to create car and foot tracks into the house.
6. If decorative glass is part of your front entrance, don’t let your alarm company install the control pad where I can see if it’s set. That makes it too easy.
7. A good security company alarms the window over the sink. And the windows on the second floor, which often access the master bedroom—and your jewelry. It’s not a bad idea to put motion detectors up there too.
8. It’s raining, you’re fumbling with your umbrella, and you forget to lock your door. I don’t take a day off because of bad weather.
9. I always knock first. If you answer, I’ll ask for directions somewhere or offer to clean your gutters. (Don’t take me up on it.)
10. Do you really think I won’t look in your sock drawer? I always check dresser drawers, the bedside table, and the medicine cabinet.
2. Hey, thanks for letting me use the bathroom when I was working in your yard last week. While I was in there, I unlatched the back window to make my return a little easier.
3. Love those flowers. That tells me you have taste … and taste means there are nice things inside. Those yard toys your kids leave out always make me wonder what type of computer gaming system you bought for them .
4. Yes, I really do look for newspapers piled up on the driveway. And I might leave a flyer in your front door to see how long it takes you to remove it.
5. If it snows while you’re out of town, get a neighbor to create car and foot tracks into the house.
6. If decorative glass is part of your front entrance, don’t let your alarm company install the control pad where I can see if it’s set. That makes it too easy.
7. A good security company alarms the window over the sink. And the windows on the second floor, which often access the master bedroom—and your jewelry. It’s not a bad idea to put motion detectors up there too.
8. It’s raining, you’re fumbling with your umbrella, and you forget to lock your door. I don’t take a day off because of bad weather.
9. I always knock first. If you answer, I’ll ask for directions somewhere or offer to clean your gutters. (Don’t take me up on it.)
10. Do you really think I won’t look in your sock drawer? I always check dresser drawers, the bedside table, and the medicine cabinet.
Sunday, February 7, 2010
Custom remodeling jackson miss 601 750 2274
call Michael at 601-750-2274
A house with good bones has pleasing lines on the outside, but that artful composition has to be echoed on the inside, too. And nothing's better for giving rooms a handsome, well-built look than wainscoting on the walls.
A combination of decorative boards or panels and moldings that extend partway up a wall's face, wainscoting is a centuries-old marriage of form and style. Dating to the 1300s, the Dutch used it to shield the bottom half of plaster walls from such hazards as jostled chairs, spurs on riding boots, perhaps even carelessly swung scabbards. Wainscoting still guards our walls, but today it's from dirt-caked gardening shoes in mudrooms, olive-oil fingerprints in kitchens, and the inevitable scuffs in the close quarters along hallways and stairways.
Covering your walls with wainscoting made from stock boards—or "sticks"—and panels is easy to do yourself, if you know your way around a chop saw. And if you don't, there's wainscoting that arrives on your doorstep fully assembled and ready to install. On the following pages, we show these and other products and some basic design options, plus a how-to plan for creating a pleasing layout. Just the kind of knowledge you'll need to boost the architectural integrity of any bare walls in your house.
call michael at 601-750-2274
Where to use it
Elegant armor for your walls, wainscoting is particularly well suited to rooms that take a lot of wear and tear
1. Entries
In mudrooms, where boots, backpacks, and wet umbrellas can damage walls, beadboard makes a good choice because there are fewer prominent edges to dent and ding. The walls in more formal foyers are often clad in paneled wainscoting.
call michael at 601-750-2274
2. Stairs and hallways
The walls of these narrow passages benefit from wainscoting's scuff and mark protection. The horizontal rails and the cap generally follow the pitch of the stair; the stiles or beadboard remain vertical.
3. Eating areas
In dining rooms, tall wainscoting topped with a grooved plate rail displays fine china and serving pieces. For more casual kitchens, wainscoting capped at chair height with a prominent top rail safeguards walls from being marred when diners push back from the table.
4. Family rooms and dens
Adding wainscoting to areas where kids—and pets—congregate can have a calming effect, the architectural equivalent of a shhh. Rec rooms benefit too, with a cap rail that's wide enough to perch a drink, Ping-Pong paddles, or pool-cue chalk.
5. Baths
A traditional alternative to pricey tiled walls, wainscoting made from warp-resistant wood, specially treated MDF, or solid surfacing helps protect the drywall or plaster underneath from water damage. It also has a warming effect in this room, where cold porcelain fixtures, ceramic floors, and tub enclosures can predominate.
6. Kids' rooms
Children probably won't give two hoots about it, but parents will appreciate the way wainscoting looks and how easily it cleans up after being used as a canvas for finger paints and crayons.
Pro Advice: Lynn Hopkins, Architect, lexington, Mass. says, "Use paneled wainscot in rooms and entryways where you can stand back and appreciate it. Beadboard works better in close quarters—hallways, mudrooms, and utility areas."
call michael at 601-750-2274
Solid wood
The original wainscoting material. Paint lesser species, such as pine, or clear-coat the good stuff, such as walnut and cherry, to highlight its color and grain. Wood requires careful installation and finishing to prevent cracks and gaps caused by seasonal expansion and contraction.
$–$$$
MDF
Medium-density fiberboard cuts like wood but doesn't expand, contract, warp, split, or have knots. Comes either primed for paint or veneered. Keep it away from water, which causes it to swell and break down. Specially treated moisture-resistant MDF, however, can stand up to steam in a bath.
$$
Plastic
Made from either cellular PVC or the same solid surfacing material used for kitchen counters. Looks like painted wood but won't rot, making it ideal for baths, laundry rooms, and even a kitchen backsplash.
$$
Plywood
The long, wide sheets make installation fast—just rip it down, glue it to the wall, and finish with cap and base moldings. Unlike those in other materials, the groove profiles tend to be shallow and rough.
call Michael at 601-750-2274
Design Rules of Thumb
Follow these guidelines for pleasing proportions
How high?
Generally, the cap sits about one-third the way up the wall. So if the ceiling is 9 feet, go for 3-foot wainscoting. For taller wainscoting, such as one with a plate rail, cap it two-thirds the way up the wall.
How wide a panel?
They should all be the same, so avoid cutting individual panels down at corners and doorways to get them to fit walls of varying lengths. Architects and kit makers use computer-aided design software to calculate panel widths that work for your specific room dimensions.
What to do under windows?
For beadboard, simply cut it to size. For paneled wainscoting, order a center panel that's the same width as your cased window. Its height will vary depending on the distance between your window's projecting bottom stool and the floor or baseboard top.
What about the base?
Baseboard topped with a profiled cap visually anchors wainscoting in a room and adds a little extra kick protection. Cover the joint where wainscoting meets the floor with shoe molding.
A house with good bones has pleasing lines on the outside, but that artful composition has to be echoed on the inside, too. And nothing's better for giving rooms a handsome, well-built look than wainscoting on the walls.
A combination of decorative boards or panels and moldings that extend partway up a wall's face, wainscoting is a centuries-old marriage of form and style. Dating to the 1300s, the Dutch used it to shield the bottom half of plaster walls from such hazards as jostled chairs, spurs on riding boots, perhaps even carelessly swung scabbards. Wainscoting still guards our walls, but today it's from dirt-caked gardening shoes in mudrooms, olive-oil fingerprints in kitchens, and the inevitable scuffs in the close quarters along hallways and stairways.
Covering your walls with wainscoting made from stock boards—or "sticks"—and panels is easy to do yourself, if you know your way around a chop saw. And if you don't, there's wainscoting that arrives on your doorstep fully assembled and ready to install. On the following pages, we show these and other products and some basic design options, plus a how-to plan for creating a pleasing layout. Just the kind of knowledge you'll need to boost the architectural integrity of any bare walls in your house.
call michael at 601-750-2274
Where to use it
Elegant armor for your walls, wainscoting is particularly well suited to rooms that take a lot of wear and tear
1. Entries
In mudrooms, where boots, backpacks, and wet umbrellas can damage walls, beadboard makes a good choice because there are fewer prominent edges to dent and ding. The walls in more formal foyers are often clad in paneled wainscoting.
call michael at 601-750-2274
2. Stairs and hallways
The walls of these narrow passages benefit from wainscoting's scuff and mark protection. The horizontal rails and the cap generally follow the pitch of the stair; the stiles or beadboard remain vertical.
3. Eating areas
In dining rooms, tall wainscoting topped with a grooved plate rail displays fine china and serving pieces. For more casual kitchens, wainscoting capped at chair height with a prominent top rail safeguards walls from being marred when diners push back from the table.
4. Family rooms and dens
Adding wainscoting to areas where kids—and pets—congregate can have a calming effect, the architectural equivalent of a shhh. Rec rooms benefit too, with a cap rail that's wide enough to perch a drink, Ping-Pong paddles, or pool-cue chalk.
5. Baths
A traditional alternative to pricey tiled walls, wainscoting made from warp-resistant wood, specially treated MDF, or solid surfacing helps protect the drywall or plaster underneath from water damage. It also has a warming effect in this room, where cold porcelain fixtures, ceramic floors, and tub enclosures can predominate.
6. Kids' rooms
Children probably won't give two hoots about it, but parents will appreciate the way wainscoting looks and how easily it cleans up after being used as a canvas for finger paints and crayons.
Pro Advice: Lynn Hopkins, Architect, lexington, Mass. says, "Use paneled wainscot in rooms and entryways where you can stand back and appreciate it. Beadboard works better in close quarters—hallways, mudrooms, and utility areas."
call michael at 601-750-2274
Solid wood
The original wainscoting material. Paint lesser species, such as pine, or clear-coat the good stuff, such as walnut and cherry, to highlight its color and grain. Wood requires careful installation and finishing to prevent cracks and gaps caused by seasonal expansion and contraction.
$–$$$
MDF
Medium-density fiberboard cuts like wood but doesn't expand, contract, warp, split, or have knots. Comes either primed for paint or veneered. Keep it away from water, which causes it to swell and break down. Specially treated moisture-resistant MDF, however, can stand up to steam in a bath.
$$
Plastic
Made from either cellular PVC or the same solid surfacing material used for kitchen counters. Looks like painted wood but won't rot, making it ideal for baths, laundry rooms, and even a kitchen backsplash.
$$
Plywood
The long, wide sheets make installation fast—just rip it down, glue it to the wall, and finish with cap and base moldings. Unlike those in other materials, the groove profiles tend to be shallow and rough.
call Michael at 601-750-2274
Design Rules of Thumb
Follow these guidelines for pleasing proportions
How high?
Generally, the cap sits about one-third the way up the wall. So if the ceiling is 9 feet, go for 3-foot wainscoting. For taller wainscoting, such as one with a plate rail, cap it two-thirds the way up the wall.
How wide a panel?
They should all be the same, so avoid cutting individual panels down at corners and doorways to get them to fit walls of varying lengths. Architects and kit makers use computer-aided design software to calculate panel widths that work for your specific room dimensions.
What to do under windows?
For beadboard, simply cut it to size. For paneled wainscoting, order a center panel that's the same width as your cased window. Its height will vary depending on the distance between your window's projecting bottom stool and the floor or baseboard top.
What about the base?
Baseboard topped with a profiled cap visually anchors wainscoting in a room and adds a little extra kick protection. Cover the joint where wainscoting meets the floor with shoe molding.
Saturday, February 6, 2010
custom windows and doors
absolutely gorgeous and worth every dime ...a bargain at twice the price
check us out at
www.customwindowsanddooors.blogspot.com
Burglar proof your home ..3 steps to start
With all the home invasions and break in robberies in upscale neighborhoods, it amazes me how few of the homeowners have initiated even the basic steps to protect your home form invasion .
First ...check your windows for protection. This is generally available on newer windows with the slip locks on the sash ...those tabs you push in so that the window is locked. Check them all and keep them locked.
Second..if you are reading this, then you have a home computer. This is a real asset today in that you can install simple programs that keep a small video camera or two recording while you are gone. These are easily programmed to work certain hours of the day ( while you are gone ) or to record at random times. here is some info on video recording programs
TRENDnet SecurView Wireless Day/Night Pan/Tilt/Zoom Internet Surveillance Camera TV-IP422W (White)
Third ...Install EXTENDED deal bolts on ALL exterior doors. These are dead bolt systems that allow the plunger to extend into the door jamb AND the FRAMING behind the jamb. In fact, you are requiring any intruder to kick down the entire framing system of the door. This is very seldom done since the crooks are in a hurry . They kick it 2 or 3 times, see it isnt going to fail , go to another house. Success on your part.
Although simple for an experienced carpenter, the tools required and the ability are a little outside the scope of the do it your self guy or gal , and this is when you need to call Michael at 601 750 2274.
these are the basic steps that everyone should do in the entire subdivision. I am continually amazed that upscale neighborhood homes are not built with these steps completed.
call Michael for any advice or help .
First ...check your windows for protection. This is generally available on newer windows with the slip locks on the sash ...those tabs you push in so that the window is locked. Check them all and keep them locked.
Second..if you are reading this, then you have a home computer. This is a real asset today in that you can install simple programs that keep a small video camera or two recording while you are gone. These are easily programmed to work certain hours of the day ( while you are gone ) or to record at random times. here is some info on video recording programs
TRENDnet SecurView Wireless Day/Night Pan/Tilt/Zoom Internet Surveillance Camera TV-IP422W (White)
Third ...Install EXTENDED deal bolts on ALL exterior doors. These are dead bolt systems that allow the plunger to extend into the door jamb AND the FRAMING behind the jamb. In fact, you are requiring any intruder to kick down the entire framing system of the door. This is very seldom done since the crooks are in a hurry . They kick it 2 or 3 times, see it isnt going to fail , go to another house. Success on your part.
Although simple for an experienced carpenter, the tools required and the ability are a little outside the scope of the do it your self guy or gal , and this is when you need to call Michael at 601 750 2274.
these are the basic steps that everyone should do in the entire subdivision. I am continually amazed that upscale neighborhood homes are not built with these steps completed.
call Michael for any advice or help .
Friday, February 5, 2010
Crown molding installed 601-750-2274 inside corners
Make a 45-degree cut
Inside corners are composed of a square-cut piece that butts the corner, and a corresponding piece that's cut on an angle and coped (carefully cut along the molding's profile) to conform to the first piece.
Begin by installing a piece of crown with a square-cut end (zero degrees on the saw).
Then position a second piece of molding upside down on the saw and adjust the blade for a miter cut. If this piece comes to the joint from the right side as shown in Step 3, swing the blade to 45 degrees left and make the cut. The bulk of the molding should be sitting on the left side of the saw.
If cutting a left-side coped piece, swing the blade to 45 degrees right, with the molding sitting to the right.
Cope the edge
Highlight the very edge of the cut, along the profiled front of the molding, with a pencil.
Next, using a coping saw, cut away the bevel. Angle the coping saw blade toward the rear about 5 degrees — a technique known as back beveling — and carefully follow the molding profile as you cut.
Use the miter saw table to brace the workpiece when cutting.
Check the fit
After completing the coped cut, test-fit it against the square-cut crown that's nailed in place.
If necessary, use a rasp to remove more wood or smooth out the coped cut.
Nail the coped molding in place and set the nails.
Cut the return
Where the crown molding doesn't butt ito something, you need to finish it with a return. Cut a 45-degree miter on the end of the crown (as you did for an outside corner) and nail it up. Next, make a 45-degree cut in the opposite direction on another piece.
Adjust the saw to zero degrees and lay the piece flat and face-down on the saw table. You'll need to remove your wood guide fence for this.
Cut through the crown, starting at the very point of the miter.
Complete the return
Bore two pilot holes through the tiny triangular return with a 4d finish nail chucked in your drill.
Apply a thin coat of glue to the return, then press it into place and hold it for a minute or two.
Nail the joint gingerly with 4d nails through the pilot holes only if the glue fails to hold.
Set the nails and fill all nail holes with putty.
Inside corners are composed of a square-cut piece that butts the corner, and a corresponding piece that's cut on an angle and coped (carefully cut along the molding's profile) to conform to the first piece.
Begin by installing a piece of crown with a square-cut end (zero degrees on the saw).
Then position a second piece of molding upside down on the saw and adjust the blade for a miter cut. If this piece comes to the joint from the right side as shown in Step 3, swing the blade to 45 degrees left and make the cut. The bulk of the molding should be sitting on the left side of the saw.
If cutting a left-side coped piece, swing the blade to 45 degrees right, with the molding sitting to the right.
Cope the edge
Highlight the very edge of the cut, along the profiled front of the molding, with a pencil.
Next, using a coping saw, cut away the bevel. Angle the coping saw blade toward the rear about 5 degrees — a technique known as back beveling — and carefully follow the molding profile as you cut.
Use the miter saw table to brace the workpiece when cutting.
Check the fit
After completing the coped cut, test-fit it against the square-cut crown that's nailed in place.
If necessary, use a rasp to remove more wood or smooth out the coped cut.
Nail the coped molding in place and set the nails.
Cut the return
Where the crown molding doesn't butt ito something, you need to finish it with a return. Cut a 45-degree miter on the end of the crown (as you did for an outside corner) and nail it up. Next, make a 45-degree cut in the opposite direction on another piece.
Adjust the saw to zero degrees and lay the piece flat and face-down on the saw table. You'll need to remove your wood guide fence for this.
Cut through the crown, starting at the very point of the miter.
Complete the return
Bore two pilot holes through the tiny triangular return with a 4d finish nail chucked in your drill.
Apply a thin coat of glue to the return, then press it into place and hold it for a minute or two.
Nail the joint gingerly with 4d nails through the pilot holes only if the glue fails to hold.
Set the nails and fill all nail holes with putty.
kitchen cabinets remodeling 601 750 2274
Wood Types and Techniques
About the Different Woods:
Different woods are the palette of the furniture maker. They provide color and texture, strength and beauty to handmade furniture.
Each type of wood has characteristics to be considered when building a piece of furniture. Some are very hard and durable; some are flexible and suitable for bending. "Hardwood" is a term applied to trees that lose their leaves in winter. "Softwood" describes evergreens such as fir, pine and redwood. The actual durability a wood is described in a range from very soft to very hard.
Every wood has a distinctive grain structure. Woods such as white and red oak, ash and walnut have "open-pores". These woods have small holes in their surface that give the piece a textural quality. When a stain is applied to this type of surface, the stain tends to collect in the "open-pores" and appears darker than the rest of the piece. Tight grained woods include maple, alder, and cherry. These woods are smooth to the touch and can take finish evenly.
Many woods have unique "figure" such as quilting, birdseye, fiddleback or spalting.
Quilted Pacific Maple
Fiddleback Pacific Maple
These naturally occurring characteristics can make a piece of furniture that reaches beyond the ordinary.
The following is a list of some of the woods used by Northern California woodworkers and their characteristics.
Find the type that most attracts you and consider using that wood for a special piece of furniture. The experienced craftworkers of Humboldt Woodworkers Guild can help find the right wood for your project.
boldt Woodworkers Guild
encourages the use
of sustainably harvested woods.
Replanting and nurturing furniture grade hardwoods helps to
promote healthy, diverse forests. Some of our members used "reclaimed" woods from old buildings to make new furniture that has the patina of aged wood.
Living in Northern California, surrounded by forests, the furnituremakers of the Guild are also able to cut and dry their own woods. Many woodworkers have cached lumber cut from their own land, waiting for a special project. Some woodworkers work exclusively with gathered woods which have fallen in wind and storms.
Using hardwoods in fine furniture promotes the value of mature trees and encourages the replanting of forests and maintenance of healthy, diverse ecosystems.
California Softwoods and Hardwoods
Alder, Pacific Maple, Black Oak, Madrone, Tan Oak, Redwood, Myrtlewood (pepperwood), Claro Walnut, Western Red Cedar, and Yew
Humboldt County woodworkers prize the unique woods of the Pacific Northwest for their beauty and durability. Local woodworkers use native woods alone and in combination with domestic and exotic species creating the furniture that is part of the distinctive designs of Northern California.
Alder
Warm brown color with a figure like cherry. Alder is a medium soft wood suitable for cabinetry and furniture with the appropriate sized joinery.
Pacific Maple
Golden yellow wood with a variety of figure available, can be found in the curly or fiddleback varieties. This is a medium hard wood suitable for all types of furniture.
Madrone
One of the harder California native woods, Madrone has a reddish pink color with streaks of color throughout. Madrone is used in furniture and turnings, and can be used in flooring and architectural woodwork.
Softwoods and Hardwoods
Ash, Basswood, Beech, Birch, Butternut, Tennessee Aromatic Cedar, Cherry, Fir, Hickory, Maple, Pine, Poplar, Red Oak, Walnut, White Oak.
Long a staple of the American furnituremaker, these mostly eastern hardwoods are most familiar to the public. Humboldt County woodworkers use these woods to make the finest handmade furniture.
Maple
Hard rock maple is one of the hardest of domestic woods. The "select white" grade of maple has a warm gold-ivory color when finished with a hand rubbed oil. Because of its hardness rock maple is suitable for all types of furniture and cabinetry.
Cherry
Furniture grade cherry is a moderately heavy, hard, strong, wood. Close grained, it can be polished to a deep and glowing red. Many of the finest early American table tops and interior panels were made of cherrywood. This wood is suitable for all furniture and cabinetry including chairs.
Walnut
North American walnut is one of the most prized hardwoods. It can range in color from deep rich brown to an almost purple brown. This is an open-pored wood that is relatively hard. Walnut is durable and finishes beautifully. The wood is useful in many furniture applications.
Exotic Woods
Andiroba, Bayo, Bloodwood, Bocote, Bubinga, Spanish Cedar, Chaktekok, Chechen, Chicozapote, Cocobolo, Ebony, Fishtail Oak, Granadillo, Ironbark, Ipe, Jabin, Jarrah, Jatoba, Katalox, Kingwood, Koa, Lacewood, Lignum Vitae, African Mahogany, Machiche, Narra, Obeche, Pau Ferro, African Paduak, Peruvian Walnut, Purpleheart, Brazilian Rosewood, Satinwood, Snakewood, Teak, Vesi Wenge, Zebrawood
With bright colors and expressive grain patterns these woods are often used as highlights in furnishing and turnings. Also, some of these exotic woods such as African mahogany and granadillo are excellent for building whole pieces of furniture, chairs and cabinetry.
Lacewood
A relatively soft wood grown widely in Australia, lacewood has an unusual grain structure that has the look of hammered copper when properly cut. It can be used as an accent wood or in veneered tabletops.
Granadillo
A beautiful, very hard wood from Southern Mexico with a tan-deep brown streaking. This close grained wood is a "Smart Wood" selectively harvested in cooperation with the indigenous people. This wood is suitable for all furniture applications.
African Mahogany
Here is traditional mahogany, deep rich, red and suitable for any furniture application. This wood is imported from Ghana, which has had a sustained yield forestry program in place since 1910.
About Techniques
The solid wood furniture of Humboldt Woodworkers Guild is built using time-honored joinery that gives the work beauty and durability.
All wood is made up of cells that continue to shrink and swell with changes in humidity. A 12-inch wide board will move on average about 1/8 of an inch over the course of a year.
If wood is not properly joined the boards will crack and break apart over the years. Antique furniture that has survived today was crafted with joints such as the mortise and tenon, dovetail, finger joint, floating panels and beautifully glued veneers. It's not that they didn't make bad furniture 100 years ago, it's just that only the good furniture has survived.
Mortise and Tenon - A mortise is the opening cut in wood, a tenon is the piece that is shaped to fit in it. This joint is used to join cross members, for example, connecting a rail to the leg of a chair.
Dovetail - The traditional joint used for drawers and to join casework work in fine cabinetry. The dovetail actually locks the wood in place in one direction.
Finger Joint - A simple joint that is similar in usage to the dovetail, the finger joint is stronger than the dovetail and compliments drawers and casework with a square patterned appearance.
Floating Panels- Frame and panels doors feature solid wood panels that fit into grooves in the wood of the frame. This construction allows the wood panel to "float" with the seasonal movement of wood.
Veneered woods - Another way to control the movement of wood to glue thinly sliced sheets of wood to a more moisture resistance substrate. Using this technique woodworkers can select unusually beautiful boards and carry the appearance of the wood grain throughout the piece.
Humboldt County woodworkers use both hand and machine tools to make fine furniture.
Chisels, hand planes and cabinet scrapers are still used in all shops along with tools as modern as a computer assisted router.
About the Different Woods:
Different woods are the palette of the furniture maker. They provide color and texture, strength and beauty to handmade furniture.
Each type of wood has characteristics to be considered when building a piece of furniture. Some are very hard and durable; some are flexible and suitable for bending. "Hardwood" is a term applied to trees that lose their leaves in winter. "Softwood" describes evergreens such as fir, pine and redwood. The actual durability a wood is described in a range from very soft to very hard.
Every wood has a distinctive grain structure. Woods such as white and red oak, ash and walnut have "open-pores". These woods have small holes in their surface that give the piece a textural quality. When a stain is applied to this type of surface, the stain tends to collect in the "open-pores" and appears darker than the rest of the piece. Tight grained woods include maple, alder, and cherry. These woods are smooth to the touch and can take finish evenly.
Many woods have unique "figure" such as quilting, birdseye, fiddleback or spalting.
Quilted Pacific Maple
Fiddleback Pacific Maple
These naturally occurring characteristics can make a piece of furniture that reaches beyond the ordinary.
The following is a list of some of the woods used by Northern California woodworkers and their characteristics.
Find the type that most attracts you and consider using that wood for a special piece of furniture. The experienced craftworkers of Humboldt Woodworkers Guild can help find the right wood for your project.
boldt Woodworkers Guild
encourages the use
of sustainably harvested woods.
Replanting and nurturing furniture grade hardwoods helps to
promote healthy, diverse forests. Some of our members used "reclaimed" woods from old buildings to make new furniture that has the patina of aged wood.
Living in Northern California, surrounded by forests, the furnituremakers of the Guild are also able to cut and dry their own woods. Many woodworkers have cached lumber cut from their own land, waiting for a special project. Some woodworkers work exclusively with gathered woods which have fallen in wind and storms.
Using hardwoods in fine furniture promotes the value of mature trees and encourages the replanting of forests and maintenance of healthy, diverse ecosystems.
California Softwoods and Hardwoods
Alder, Pacific Maple, Black Oak, Madrone, Tan Oak, Redwood, Myrtlewood (pepperwood), Claro Walnut, Western Red Cedar, and Yew
Humboldt County woodworkers prize the unique woods of the Pacific Northwest for their beauty and durability. Local woodworkers use native woods alone and in combination with domestic and exotic species creating the furniture that is part of the distinctive designs of Northern California.
Alder
Warm brown color with a figure like cherry. Alder is a medium soft wood suitable for cabinetry and furniture with the appropriate sized joinery.
Pacific Maple
Golden yellow wood with a variety of figure available, can be found in the curly or fiddleback varieties. This is a medium hard wood suitable for all types of furniture.
Madrone
One of the harder California native woods, Madrone has a reddish pink color with streaks of color throughout. Madrone is used in furniture and turnings, and can be used in flooring and architectural woodwork.
Softwoods and Hardwoods
Ash, Basswood, Beech, Birch, Butternut, Tennessee Aromatic Cedar, Cherry, Fir, Hickory, Maple, Pine, Poplar, Red Oak, Walnut, White Oak.
Long a staple of the American furnituremaker, these mostly eastern hardwoods are most familiar to the public. Humboldt County woodworkers use these woods to make the finest handmade furniture.
Maple
Hard rock maple is one of the hardest of domestic woods. The "select white" grade of maple has a warm gold-ivory color when finished with a hand rubbed oil. Because of its hardness rock maple is suitable for all types of furniture and cabinetry.
Cherry
Furniture grade cherry is a moderately heavy, hard, strong, wood. Close grained, it can be polished to a deep and glowing red. Many of the finest early American table tops and interior panels were made of cherrywood. This wood is suitable for all furniture and cabinetry including chairs.
Walnut
North American walnut is one of the most prized hardwoods. It can range in color from deep rich brown to an almost purple brown. This is an open-pored wood that is relatively hard. Walnut is durable and finishes beautifully. The wood is useful in many furniture applications.
Exotic Woods
Andiroba, Bayo, Bloodwood, Bocote, Bubinga, Spanish Cedar, Chaktekok, Chechen, Chicozapote, Cocobolo, Ebony, Fishtail Oak, Granadillo, Ironbark, Ipe, Jabin, Jarrah, Jatoba, Katalox, Kingwood, Koa, Lacewood, Lignum Vitae, African Mahogany, Machiche, Narra, Obeche, Pau Ferro, African Paduak, Peruvian Walnut, Purpleheart, Brazilian Rosewood, Satinwood, Snakewood, Teak, Vesi Wenge, Zebrawood
With bright colors and expressive grain patterns these woods are often used as highlights in furnishing and turnings. Also, some of these exotic woods such as African mahogany and granadillo are excellent for building whole pieces of furniture, chairs and cabinetry.
Lacewood
A relatively soft wood grown widely in Australia, lacewood has an unusual grain structure that has the look of hammered copper when properly cut. It can be used as an accent wood or in veneered tabletops.
Granadillo
A beautiful, very hard wood from Southern Mexico with a tan-deep brown streaking. This close grained wood is a "Smart Wood" selectively harvested in cooperation with the indigenous people. This wood is suitable for all furniture applications.
African Mahogany
Here is traditional mahogany, deep rich, red and suitable for any furniture application. This wood is imported from Ghana, which has had a sustained yield forestry program in place since 1910.
About Techniques
The solid wood furniture of Humboldt Woodworkers Guild is built using time-honored joinery that gives the work beauty and durability.
All wood is made up of cells that continue to shrink and swell with changes in humidity. A 12-inch wide board will move on average about 1/8 of an inch over the course of a year.
If wood is not properly joined the boards will crack and break apart over the years. Antique furniture that has survived today was crafted with joints such as the mortise and tenon, dovetail, finger joint, floating panels and beautifully glued veneers. It's not that they didn't make bad furniture 100 years ago, it's just that only the good furniture has survived.
Mortise and Tenon - A mortise is the opening cut in wood, a tenon is the piece that is shaped to fit in it. This joint is used to join cross members, for example, connecting a rail to the leg of a chair.
Dovetail - The traditional joint used for drawers and to join casework work in fine cabinetry. The dovetail actually locks the wood in place in one direction.
Finger Joint - A simple joint that is similar in usage to the dovetail, the finger joint is stronger than the dovetail and compliments drawers and casework with a square patterned appearance.
Floating Panels- Frame and panels doors feature solid wood panels that fit into grooves in the wood of the frame. This construction allows the wood panel to "float" with the seasonal movement of wood.
Veneered woods - Another way to control the movement of wood to glue thinly sliced sheets of wood to a more moisture resistance substrate. Using this technique woodworkers can select unusually beautiful boards and carry the appearance of the wood grain throughout the piece.
Humboldt County woodworkers use both hand and machine tools to make fine furniture.
Chisels, hand planes and cabinet scrapers are still used in all shops along with tools as modern as a computer assisted router.
home invasion , home invasions avoided call Michael at 601 212 5433
Assistant Chief Lee Vance said he believes the same people are responsible for all the burglaries or break-ins in Jackson.
The most recent burglary was Tuesday night at New Jerusalem Church on Old Canton Road. Thieves broke a basement window and took about $15,000 in sound equipment and electronics.
The burglary happened sometime after a revival ended at 9:30 p.m. and 1 a.m., when a Jackson police officer on patrol spotted the broken window and called church officials who then discovered the missing items.
Church members still were cleaning up Thursday. The sound system had to be rewired because equipment was ripped out, said Alvin Jackson, associate pastor.
The church is getting estimates on additional security, including surveillance cameras, he said. It has an alarm, but it didn't go off during the burglary because it was not armed, Jackson said.
Parishioner Kizzy Lewis said the break-in made her sad more than anything.
"You need to be coming to church instead of breaking into church," she said.
In most of the break-ins, the perpetrators used bricks or rocks to smash the glass out of windows or doors.
They then ransacked the pulpits, offices and sanctuaries, taking video cameras, amplifiers, bass guitars, computers, televisions and more.
At Cornerstone Missionary Baptist Church on Martin Luther King Jr. Drive, burglars stacked equipment near the broken front window, then took the items out through the window.
Police have not found a pattern in which churches are being hit, Vance said. Some of the churches are small with fewer than 100 members while others have larger congregations.
Vance said the burglars are motivated by money, and churches are easy targets. The items being stolen are pretty easy to sell on the streets, he said.
JPD is checking area pawn shops but has not recovered any of the stolen items. JPD also has directed patrols to check churches every hour throughout the night.
Morning Star Baptist Church hasn't been burglarized, and that's the way Rev. Bryan Wilson hopes it stays. The church is evaluating its security system, he said.
At Greater Bethlehem Temple, church officials have asked their alarm company to test the system and are making sure all locks work and that staff members know to secure the building upon leaving, communications director Ervin Ricks said.
The most recent burglary was Tuesday night at New Jerusalem Church on Old Canton Road. Thieves broke a basement window and took about $15,000 in sound equipment and electronics.
The burglary happened sometime after a revival ended at 9:30 p.m. and 1 a.m., when a Jackson police officer on patrol spotted the broken window and called church officials who then discovered the missing items.
Church members still were cleaning up Thursday. The sound system had to be rewired because equipment was ripped out, said Alvin Jackson, associate pastor.
The church is getting estimates on additional security, including surveillance cameras, he said. It has an alarm, but it didn't go off during the burglary because it was not armed, Jackson said.
Parishioner Kizzy Lewis said the break-in made her sad more than anything.
"You need to be coming to church instead of breaking into church," she said.
In most of the break-ins, the perpetrators used bricks or rocks to smash the glass out of windows or doors.
They then ransacked the pulpits, offices and sanctuaries, taking video cameras, amplifiers, bass guitars, computers, televisions and more.
At Cornerstone Missionary Baptist Church on Martin Luther King Jr. Drive, burglars stacked equipment near the broken front window, then took the items out through the window.
Police have not found a pattern in which churches are being hit, Vance said. Some of the churches are small with fewer than 100 members while others have larger congregations.
Vance said the burglars are motivated by money, and churches are easy targets. The items being stolen are pretty easy to sell on the streets, he said.
JPD is checking area pawn shops but has not recovered any of the stolen items. JPD also has directed patrols to check churches every hour throughout the night.
Morning Star Baptist Church hasn't been burglarized, and that's the way Rev. Bryan Wilson hopes it stays. The church is evaluating its security system, he said.
At Greater Bethlehem Temple, church officials have asked their alarm company to test the system and are making sure all locks work and that staff members know to secure the building upon leaving, communications director Ervin Ricks said.
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