11. Here’s a helpful hint: I almost never go into kids’ rooms. So , might be a good place for the safe ?
12. You’re right: I won’t have enough time to break into that safe where you keep your valuables. But I come prepared to take it with me.
13. A TV or radio can be a better deterrent than the best alarm system. If you’re reluctant to leave your TV on while you’re out of town...just do it anyway ...real television noises confuse me. Confused...I leave.
Dont call Michael at 601 750 2274 ..he know how to clear all these points up and makes it impossible for me to go to work .
check this out for a computer based security system. Alarms work after the fact , this allows you control and a record.
Showing posts with label home security systems. Show all posts
Showing posts with label home security systems. Show all posts
Thursday, February 11, 2010
Saturday, February 6, 2010
Burglar proof your home ..3 steps to start
With all the home invasions and break in robberies in upscale neighborhoods, it amazes me how few of the homeowners have initiated even the basic steps to protect your home form invasion .
First ...check your windows for protection. This is generally available on newer windows with the slip locks on the sash ...those tabs you push in so that the window is locked. Check them all and keep them locked.
Second..if you are reading this, then you have a home computer. This is a real asset today in that you can install simple programs that keep a small video camera or two recording while you are gone. These are easily programmed to work certain hours of the day ( while you are gone ) or to record at random times. here is some info on video recording programs
TRENDnet SecurView Wireless Day/Night Pan/Tilt/Zoom Internet Surveillance Camera TV-IP422W (White)
Third ...Install EXTENDED deal bolts on ALL exterior doors. These are dead bolt systems that allow the plunger to extend into the door jamb AND the FRAMING behind the jamb. In fact, you are requiring any intruder to kick down the entire framing system of the door. This is very seldom done since the crooks are in a hurry . They kick it 2 or 3 times, see it isnt going to fail , go to another house. Success on your part.
Although simple for an experienced carpenter, the tools required and the ability are a little outside the scope of the do it your self guy or gal , and this is when you need to call Michael at 601 750 2274.
these are the basic steps that everyone should do in the entire subdivision. I am continually amazed that upscale neighborhood homes are not built with these steps completed.
call Michael for any advice or help .
First ...check your windows for protection. This is generally available on newer windows with the slip locks on the sash ...those tabs you push in so that the window is locked. Check them all and keep them locked.
Second..if you are reading this, then you have a home computer. This is a real asset today in that you can install simple programs that keep a small video camera or two recording while you are gone. These are easily programmed to work certain hours of the day ( while you are gone ) or to record at random times. here is some info on video recording programs
TRENDnet SecurView Wireless Day/Night Pan/Tilt/Zoom Internet Surveillance Camera TV-IP422W (White)
Third ...Install EXTENDED deal bolts on ALL exterior doors. These are dead bolt systems that allow the plunger to extend into the door jamb AND the FRAMING behind the jamb. In fact, you are requiring any intruder to kick down the entire framing system of the door. This is very seldom done since the crooks are in a hurry . They kick it 2 or 3 times, see it isnt going to fail , go to another house. Success on your part.
Although simple for an experienced carpenter, the tools required and the ability are a little outside the scope of the do it your self guy or gal , and this is when you need to call Michael at 601 750 2274.
these are the basic steps that everyone should do in the entire subdivision. I am continually amazed that upscale neighborhood homes are not built with these steps completed.
call Michael for any advice or help .
Thursday, January 28, 2010
Crown molding installed 601-750-2274
American new-home buyers have been conditioned to settle for the stripped-down model of Home, Sweet Home—houses lacking in crafted detail, missing, among other things, the gracious moldings that bring a timeless sophistication to any room. Primary among these is crown molding. The good news: Crown molding can be added without a big bill from the lumberyard or clouds of drywall dust.
Installing crown molding, however, is a task that strikes fear in the heart of every amateur carpenter—and even some pros. Because it sits at an angle on the wall, each joint is made of compound angles. Getting it right requires a lot of patience, an aptitude for spatial relations, and a few tricks from an experienced pro.
There are some basic rules for installing crown molding that you can pick up anywhere, but the best way to master them is to watch a pro. When we asked Tom Silva to show us how he puts up crown, his 40 years of experience became evident right away. For one thing, he seldom picks up a tape measure, marking his cuts in place whenever possible. "Measuring leaves you open to miscalculations," he says.
He also doesn't lay the molding flat to cut it. Cutting crown flat, though it might seem easier, requires a saw that lets you tilt the blade (for the bevel) and rotate it (for the miter angle). You also need a set of tables to know the correct angles for the cuts.
Instead, Tom uses a simple power miter saw and arranges the material so it sits against the saw fence at the same angle it will be nailed to the wall.
Although the molding has to be upside down in this method, a simple downward cut of the blade set at 45 degrees produces the perfect bevel and miter at once, as you'll see
1. Create a guide fence
Place a piece of your molding at an angle upside down on the miter saw table so that the narrower bevel on the back of the molding rests on the saw table — this is actually the top of the molding, which will contact the ceiling when in place. The wider bevel (actually the "wall" part of the molding) will be against the saw's vertical fence. Secure with clamps.
Cut a piece of plywood or solid stock 30 inches long for a fence.
Apply hot glue to the saw table on either side of its rotating center, and press the fence in place against the clamped molding. Hold it in place until the glue sets. Then remove the crown and cut away the center section of the fence at 45 degrees in each direction.
2. Make the first scarf cut
When two lengths of molding are required for a long wall, join them with an angled, overlapping scarf joint.
If you're working counterclockwise around the room, adjust the saw for a 45-degree miter cut to the left. (Swing it to the right if you're going clockwise.) Then put the crown, upside down as before, on the saw table between the wood guide fence and the vertical saw fence. Make sure the piece you're keeping is on the side to which the blade is turned.
Hold the molding securely, then cut through it slowly.
Leave the blade in the same position, and cut the adjoining length of molding with the piece you're keeping on the other side of the blade.
Installing crown molding, however, is a task that strikes fear in the heart of every amateur carpenter—and even some pros. Because it sits at an angle on the wall, each joint is made of compound angles. Getting it right requires a lot of patience, an aptitude for spatial relations, and a few tricks from an experienced pro.
There are some basic rules for installing crown molding that you can pick up anywhere, but the best way to master them is to watch a pro. When we asked Tom Silva to show us how he puts up crown, his 40 years of experience became evident right away. For one thing, he seldom picks up a tape measure, marking his cuts in place whenever possible. "Measuring leaves you open to miscalculations," he says.
He also doesn't lay the molding flat to cut it. Cutting crown flat, though it might seem easier, requires a saw that lets you tilt the blade (for the bevel) and rotate it (for the miter angle). You also need a set of tables to know the correct angles for the cuts.
Instead, Tom uses a simple power miter saw and arranges the material so it sits against the saw fence at the same angle it will be nailed to the wall.
Although the molding has to be upside down in this method, a simple downward cut of the blade set at 45 degrees produces the perfect bevel and miter at once, as you'll see
1. Create a guide fence
Place a piece of your molding at an angle upside down on the miter saw table so that the narrower bevel on the back of the molding rests on the saw table — this is actually the top of the molding, which will contact the ceiling when in place. The wider bevel (actually the "wall" part of the molding) will be against the saw's vertical fence. Secure with clamps.
Cut a piece of plywood or solid stock 30 inches long for a fence.
Apply hot glue to the saw table on either side of its rotating center, and press the fence in place against the clamped molding. Hold it in place until the glue sets. Then remove the crown and cut away the center section of the fence at 45 degrees in each direction.
2. Make the first scarf cut
When two lengths of molding are required for a long wall, join them with an angled, overlapping scarf joint.
If you're working counterclockwise around the room, adjust the saw for a 45-degree miter cut to the left. (Swing it to the right if you're going clockwise.) Then put the crown, upside down as before, on the saw table between the wood guide fence and the vertical saw fence. Make sure the piece you're keeping is on the side to which the blade is turned.
Hold the molding securely, then cut through it slowly.
Leave the blade in the same position, and cut the adjoining length of molding with the piece you're keeping on the other side of the blade.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)