Crown molding installed 601-750-2274

American new-home buyers have been conditioned to settle for the stripped-down model of Home, Sweet Home—houses lacking in crafted detail, missing, among other things, the gracious moldings that bring a timeless sophistication to any room. Primary among these is crown molding. The good news: Crown molding can be added without a big bill from the lumberyard or clouds of drywall dust.

Installing crown molding, however, is a task that strikes fear in the heart of every amateur carpenter—and even some pros. Because it sits at an angle on the wall, each joint is made of compound angles. Getting it right requires a lot of patience, an aptitude for spatial relations, and a few tricks from an experienced pro.

There are some basic rules for installing crown molding that you can pick up anywhere, but the best way to master them is to watch a pro. When we asked Tom Silva to show us how he puts up crown, his 40 years of experience became evident right away. For one thing, he seldom picks up a tape measure, marking his cuts in place whenever possible. "Measuring leaves you open to miscalculations," he says.

He also doesn't lay the molding flat to cut it. Cutting crown flat, though it might seem easier, requires a saw that lets you tilt the blade (for the bevel) and rotate it (for the miter angle). You also need a set of tables to know the correct angles for the cuts.

Instead, Tom uses a simple power miter saw and arranges the material so it sits against the saw fence at the same angle it will be nailed to the wall.

Although the molding has to be upside down in this method, a simple downward cut of the blade set at 45 degrees produces the perfect bevel and miter at once, as you'll see

1. Create a guide fence

Place a piece of your molding at an angle upside down on the miter saw table so that the narrower bevel on the back of the molding rests on the saw table — this is actually the top of the molding, which will contact the ceiling when in place. The wider bevel (actually the "wall" part of the molding) will be against the saw's vertical fence. Secure with clamps.

Cut a piece of plywood or solid stock 30 inches long for a fence.

Apply hot glue to the saw table on either side of its rotating center, and press the fence in place against the clamped molding. Hold it in place until the glue sets. Then remove the crown and cut away the center section of the fence at 45 degrees in each direction.

2. Make the first scarf cut

When two lengths of molding are required for a long wall, join them with an angled, overlapping scarf joint.

If you're working counterclockwise around the room, adjust the saw for a 45-degree miter cut to the left. (Swing it to the right if you're going clockwise.) Then put the crown, upside down as before, on the saw table between the wood guide fence and the vertical saw fence. Make sure the piece you're keeping is on the side to which the blade is turned.

Hold the molding securely, then cut through it slowly.

Leave the blade in the same position, and cut the adjoining length of molding with the piece you're keeping on the other side of the blade.

how to build a stroage shed

How To Build a Storage Shed / Garden Shed
These free shed plans are for a 8x8 barn style storage shed, garden shed. Once you have decided on the type of storage shed , you will need some storage shed plans.

If you have decided to build an 8x8 gambrel roof storage shed take a look around at my free storage shed plans. If you decide to build this type of storage shed, start by cutting all your material then assemble your shed.

If you are looking for something different, you may want to check out this site, Sheds software from Big Hammer I have not bought this software, but it looks nice and would like to try it.

I hope this blog helps you building your storage shed / garden shed. I have put lots of pictures, and will try to explain the steps, to build this 8x8 gambrel roof storage shed.




After looking at many pre-built storage shed kits and local storage shed builders sheds, I decided to build my own from scratch.
The material cost was around $950 from a building supply store.
I built the entire storage shed myself in about three days.
Building your own storage shed can be a very satisfying process, you will have a well built storage shed that will outlast any wood or sheet metal kit shed.

Make sure you stop by or call your zoning department before you begin your project.
Find out whether your storage shed will be allowed by zoning regulations.
Storage sheds greater than 120 sq. feet generally require a permit, but temporary buildings generally do not.

How to build a storage shed, step-by-step instructions will take you through these stages.
Framing, the floor will be first, then the walls and then the roof.
Roofing, adding the roofing paper and shingles.
Exterior finishes, including trim and paint.

Many of the tools needed to build your storage sheds are common to most households.

Thanks for visiting my blog, I hope my free shed plans helped you out with your storage shed project.



more steps to follow ..or call me at 601 750-2274 and I will build it for you

* auger - A tool for drillingholes in wood, consisting of a bit with a spirally inclined plane and a handle.
* baluster - A rod supporting a stair or porch railing.
* bar clamp - A long metal bar with an adjustable clamp.
* batten - A strip of wood, or a board, used to bridge or seal a gap between two other boards.
* beveled cut - An angle cut.
* bit- That part of a drill or auger which actually makes the hole.
* block plane - A small hand tool used to shave off or smooth lumber.
* box nail - A thin shank , flat headed nail.
* centers - The measured distance between the center of one stud or joist, rafter, etc. and its neighbor.
* chalk line - A string coated with chalk dust, used to mark long, straight lines.
* chisel - A straight or beveled edge tool used for paring wood.
* combination square - A 12 inch long measuring toolwith a sliding head, which can be adjusted at different lengths. The head has one at a 90 degree -right- angle to the blade and the other edge at a 45 degree angel.
* common nail - A flat headed nail with a heavier head and thicker shank than a box nail.
* counterbore - To bore a hole in order to recess a screw head. The hole is often filled with a wooden plug.
* countersink - To drive a nail or screw until the head is below the surface of the wood.
* finishing nail - A headless or nearly headless nail.
* gusset- A flat brace joining two boards, often a triangle of plywood joining two rafters at the roof peak.
* jamb - The inner framework of a door facing the edge of the door.
* rafter - A timber extending from roof peak to wall top.
* skid - A foundation board for small building, like a little storage shed or dog house
* wood clamp - Two wooden jaws with a adjustable threaded steel rods running through them.